Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula (1990)
Page Views: 5,322 total · 36/month
Shared By: DaveB on May 20, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Description

Quintessential Red River Gorge sport climbing! Pumpy, sustained, pockets, sidepulls, this route has it all! From ground, leap to gain the overhanging start using pockets (jugs?) and generous edges. Moving up, you'll begin to feel the pump set in, but keep yourself together for thin technical moves to undercling (crux) and clip. Finish on slab to anchors.

(Cherish and savor every rest. Plenty of hardmen, not used to the Red's steepness and endurance demands, have humbly succumbed.)

Location

The approach trail meets the wall at No Return (handcrack in black rock). Go right, pass-by The Underling (obvious recessed rockhouse with roof and hole at rear/right), and two bolted sport routes. King Me is the next bolted line and begins on the outward face/lip of an 8ft roof of sorts. Leap, or use a stepping stone to gain the route.

Protection

10 bolts. Anchors. Use at least a 60m rope.

Photos

Kris Gorny

  5.11b
Kris Gorny    
  5.11b
My absolute favorite 11b! This one alone is worth driving across few states. Jun 15, 2007
Paul Corsaro
Indianapolis, IN
Paul Corsaro   Indianapolis, IN
possibility of decking if you fall at the second clip. May 27, 2008
ziggy  
Classic, painfully classic. Thinking the pump alone is the crux of this route will only get you in trouble at the top. Oct 21, 2009
Eric Hirst  
 
As of 11/11/11, the SS sport anchors at the top were getting pretty worn. We added an old bail biner to the mix. Very nice route. Nov 18, 2011
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
  5.11b
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
  5.11b
Big fall potential (all air though) if you blow the crux. Exciting climbing the whole way up! Dec 12, 2011
BCA
michigan
BCA   michigan
oh, i blew the crux and took the big fall. soft catch and its comfy though. super fun climbing. sporty! Aug 11, 2012
CharlesErickson
Evergreen, CO
  5.11b
CharlesErickson   Evergreen, CO
  5.11b
The route to go for at Eastern Sky Bridge!

This route should give you a little pump and it definitely provides great holds throughout.

A must do indeed! Nov 26, 2012
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
Best route at the grade in the Red! Way better than that Brown Sunrise one or whatever at North 40. Also a great test to on-sight (and not in the same way as Prime Directive.) Apr 18, 2017
Eugenel Espiritu
PA
  5.10d
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
  5.10d
Didnt find any 11b moves; just a lot of 10c moves and a 10d crux. Sustained. Oct 15, 2018
Eugenel Espiritu from your spray sheet it seems like you did a whole lot of chuffing on this route. Maybe you should actually send it before you try and down-grade a classic! :) Oct 22, 2018
DaveB
  5.11b
DaveB  
  5.11b
Yes, agree with you, Luca. The route, properly sent, commands respect and deserves its grade. Oct 22, 2018
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Very fun! Stand up and keep the faith through the crux. Apparently there is an alternate finish, I'll look for it next time. Oct 24, 2018