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Routes in Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

Commencement S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corpus Delicti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dave the Dude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Doppler Effect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop the Anchor S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Good Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grunge Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inhibitor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jack in the Pulpit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King Me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Learning Curve, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Martin Rides Again S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Return T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pearl, The V5 6C
Rifleman, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sick Puppies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Silently Does the Sun Shine T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13
Soul Ram S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Super Dario S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
What's Right with the Underling S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula (1990)
Page Views: 3,970 total, 31/month
Shared By: DaveB on May 20, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Quintessential Red River Gorge sport climbing! Pumpy, sustained, pockets, sidepulls, this route has it all! From ground, leap to gain the overhanging start using pockets (jugs?) and generous edges. Moving up, you'll begin to feel the pump set in, but keep yourself together for thin technical moves to undercling (crux) and clip. Finish on slab to anchors.

(Cherish and savor every rest. Plenty of hardmen, not used to the Red's steepness and endurance demands, have humbly succumbed.)

Location

The approach trail meets the wall at No Return (handcrack in black rock). Go right, pass-by The Underling (obvious recessed rockhouse with roof and hole at rear/right), and two bolted sport routes. King Me is the next bolted line and begins on the outward face/lip of an 8ft roof of sorts. Leap, or use a stepping stone to gain the route.

Protection

10 bolts. Anchors. Use at least a 60m rope.

Photos

Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
Best route at the grade in the Red! Way better than that Brown Sunrise one or whatever at North 40. Also a great test to on-sight (and not in the same way as Prime Directive.) Apr 18, 2017
CharlesErickson
Evergreen, CO
  5.11b
CharlesErickson   Evergreen, CO
  5.11b
The route to go for at Eastern Sky Bridge!

This route should give you a little pump and it definitely provides great holds throughout.

A must do indeed! Nov 26, 2012
BCA
michigan
BCA   michigan
oh, i blew the crux and took the big fall. soft catch and its comfy though. super fun climbing. sporty! Aug 11, 2012
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
  5.11b
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
  5.11b
Big fall potential (all air though) if you blow the crux. Exciting climbing the whole way up! Dec 12, 2011
Eric Hirst  
 
As of 11/11/11, the SS sport anchors at the top were getting pretty worn. We added an old bail biner to the mix. Very nice route. Nov 18, 2011
ziggy  
Classic, painfully classic. Thinking the pump alone is the crux of this route will only get you in trouble at the top. Oct 21, 2009
Paul Corsaro
Indianapolis, IN
Paul Corsaro   Indianapolis, IN
possibility of decking if you fall at the second clip. May 27, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.11b
Kris Gorny    
  5.11b
My absolute favorite 11b! This one alone is worth driving across few states. Jun 15, 2007