Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Larry Day, 1974
Page Views: 8,373 total · 56/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 1, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


102 Opinions

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Description

Begin in the left of the two cracks. Climb up to the roof and traverse the underclinging crack. This is easier if you are taller. Grab the lip of the hole and flip your feet up over your head, or struggle to chimney up in the hole right-side-up. Belay from bolted anchors out near the edge of the ledge and rappel, or continue up a second pitch to the left.

Location

Once you reach the main wall at Sky Bridge Ridge walk right until you spot this recessed dihedral under a roof with a hole up in to a rockhouse above. You really can't miss it.

Protection

TCUs to fist sized gear. Make sure you take some shoulder slings to minimize rope drag.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I've tried and tried to do this route right-side up, just to do it, but you know, it's just so much harder that way and no reason to force it. Who doesn't love the odd moves on this route? Really short, but soooo cool. Oct 6, 2006
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
awesome route Oct 30, 2010
CharlesErickson
Evergreen, CO
  5.9
CharlesErickson   Evergreen, CO
  5.9
If your follower isn't a huge fan of crack climbing (or gets nervous on it) place a piece of gear for them at the end of the crack before pulling into the hole. They'll thank you from saving them on the swing.

Great route for the 5.9 trad climber! Nov 26, 2012
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
This route was equipped with stainless glue-ins. 10/3/2014. Oct 3, 2014
Patti Degner
Boulder, CO
 
Patti Degner   Boulder, CO
 
Easier for tall people, I'm 5'2" and could not easily reach the foot holds from the roof crack. The chimney is super cool though, and easier than you would think! If you can do 5.9 trad, do this route. Oct 17, 2016
Tara Storter
Eagle River, AK
  5.9
Tara Storter   Eagle River, AK
  5.9
I'm 5'1" and reaching the feet for the horizontal under cling just wasn't possible. So I had to place gear, hang on it to place the next piece, to pull over and by pass the short section across till I could reach feet. Still an awesome climb. Loved pulling thru the chimney. I swung my leg up, hooked it and then pulled myself up, mantel. While the guys more shimmied. Recommend the leg hook. How often do you get to do that? Oct 25, 2018