Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, Ron Snyder, 8/'83
Page Views: 9,711 total · 47/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A classic climb, love it or leave it. Both the technical difficulty of and physical effort required for this climb are body-size dependent.

I've heard so many comments about the likely use of a stealth-rubber wet suit, a full-body tape glove, king-kong handjams, etc... to know it isn't just me that thinks this is a workout. It is more physical than technical, I guess, because it seems that most people who try it make it, but everyone always says how hard it was.

Start in a thin hands crack and work your way up to a wide spot. Spend quite some considerable effort trying to get into the crack here, then consider that it's going to be equally hard to get right back out of it in just another 5 meters more. Jam the fists to off-fists section above the squeeze and then cruise to the top on better jams.

The bottom is easier is you have small hands, the offwidth might be easier if you have a small body, but other parts may be easier if you have big fists. Your helmet may get stuck in the chimney so leave it off, trail it, or be prepared to suffer.

Location Suggest change

From the approach to the main wall on Sky Bridge, head right past the first wall encountered to a strange little rock house the size of a garage with a hole through the "artificial ceiling" in the right rear corner (the Underling) and then continue right another 20 meters past some big boulders to an opposing set of corners over roofs. The left-facing corner on the right is "Inhibitor."

Protection Suggest change

Nothing smaller than a #1, but you'll want doubles in everything, maybe a third #2. Take one or two #4 camalots, plus one or two #5 or #6s.