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Routes in Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

Commencement S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corpus Delicti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dave the Dude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Doppler Effect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop the Anchor S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Good Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grunge Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inhibitor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jack in the Pulpit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King Me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Learning Curve, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Martin Rides Again S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Return T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pearl, The V5 6C
Rifleman, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sick Puppies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Silently Does the Sun Shine T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13
Soul Ram S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Super Dario S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
What's Right with the Underling S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, Ron Snyder, 8/'83
Page Views: 4,903 total, 37/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A classic climb, love it or leave it. Both the technical difficulty of and physical effort required for this climb are body-size dependent.
I've heard so many comments about the likely use of a stealth-rubber wet suit, a full-body tape glove, king-kong handjams, etc... to know it isn't just me that thinks this is a workout. It is more physical than technical, I guess, because it seems that most people who try it make it, but everyone always says how hard it was.
Start in a thin hands crack and work your way up to a wide spot. Spend quite some considerable effort trying to get into the crack here, then consider that it's going to be equally hard to get right back out of it in just another 5 meters more. Jam the fists to off-fists section above the squeeze and then cruise to the top on better jams. This climb favors those with larger fists and forearms but not those with big chests. Leave your helmet off or suffer.

Location

From the approach to the main wall on Sky Bridge, head right past the first wall encountered to a strange little rock house the size of a garage with a hole through the "artificial ceiling" in the right rear corner (the Underling) and then continue right another 20 meters past some big boulders to an opposing set of corners over roofs. THe left-facing corner on the right is "Inhibitor."

Protection

Well,a little heads-up in places, but protected at the cruxes. Take a #4 camalot, plus one truly big cam.
adam Happensack
seneca rocks
  5.11a PG13
adam Happensack   seneca rocks
  5.11a PG13
you can protect the top of the squeeze with a camelot c4 number 6. I'm not sure a new 5 would fit... but this climb is mega classic fun! Nov 13, 2017
thechutrain  
 
Probably my favorite crack climb I've done in Kentucky, with a little of everything - perfect 1's corner, off width, overhanging hands, fists. There was a fixed hex with a bail carabiner at the beginning of the off-width in late April, and felt pretty G with the #5, but is hard. Helmet does get in the way when exiting the off width. I'll be back again for the red point! Jul 13, 2016
Agjohns
 
Agjohns  
 
Awesome climb! Side note on the gear, sure you "can" climb it with nothing larger than a #4 if unprotected Chimneys is your thing, but if you want to protect the chimney you can simply walk a #6 the whole way. Sep 14, 2015
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11-
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11-
I climbed this again for the first time in 6 years...definitely not a gimme, but definitely not PG13. The only part that is hard to protect is the squeeze before the #5 placement, and if you fall out before placing it you probably have no business leading this route. Apr 6, 2015
Beautiful climb and definitely not P-13. All moves can be protected and you don't need anything bigger than a 5 for getting out of the squeeze chimney. I HIGHLY recommend it. Jan 20, 2013
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11-
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11-
GREAT climbing...this is truly a stellar route. The upper jam crack stymied me twice...

Just like the guidebook says...it takes a #4 C4 to protect the move into the squeeze, a #5 C4 above your head to protect the move out (clip it long), and hand- and fist-sized cams for the rest.

I'd also recommend keeping your right hip free of gear... Mar 23, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
One of the finest pitches of crackclimbing I have done. It is made even better in that it is found smack dab in the middle of sportclimbing disneyland. I found no need for anything larger than a #4 Camelot although one could easily find spots to place larger cams. The overhanging hands finish is simply fantastic. Aug 17, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.11b
Kris Gorny    
  5.11b
Taped hands for the bottom crack make it less painful. Also, I'm sure I would've fallen off at the beginning of the offwidth/chimney section if I hadn't find a little handhold on the left inside wall of the crack. Makes it easier. Jun 15, 2007