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Lower Small Wall Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lower Small Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aptly Named V0+ 4+
	Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dicey at Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Elevator Out of Service T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Good Tang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hierarchy V1 5
	Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
	Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Love Hurts V2- 5+
	Marching Band V2- 5+ PG13
	Seven-Ten Split V0 4
	Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tipsy V1 5
	Weasel, The V3- 6A
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Elevation:	1,051 ft	320 m
GPS:	37.8214, -83.59228 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Lower Small Wall--like the other Small Walls--isn't very small. It's actually the largest of the three, south facing, and full of adventure and mystery. Good Tang and Blue Biner are classics but there are a lot of other worthwhile routes and a handful of good boulder problems.

Getting There

Traveling from Nada Tunnel the pull off (one of them) for Lower Small Wall is 1.7 miles past the entrance of the Gladie Visitor Center on the right side of the road. Park and hike straight up the hill. You will come out a few yards left (west) of the obvious orange dihedral of Dicey at Best. This is also the best parking for the small roadside bouldering area.

Bouldering

The bouldering at Lower Small Wall is for the most part, removed fro mthe climbing area. The majority of the boulders are down near the road. There are a couple of decent problems near the route Eggshell as well.

To find the bouldering area, drive through the RRG on highway 715 from Nada Tunnel, past Gladie Visitor Center, Tower Rock and when you near the pull-offs for LSW you'll see two large, chossy boulders on the left side of the road. Just past the second one is two pull-offs on the right (river) side of the road. Park in the second one. Cross the road, climb the short bank and beeline into the woods. You should first encounter The Weasel Boulder. It's road side face is round-ish, slightly overhanging and flat gray.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Small Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 10 ● Double Caves Crack Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 44 ● Good Tang Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 32 ● Blue Biner Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 43 ● Dicey at Best Trad 2 pitches