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Routes in Lower Small Wall

Aptly Named V0+ 4+
Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dicey at Best T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Tang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hierarchy V1 5
Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Hurts V2- 5+
Seven-Ten Split V0 4
Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weasel, The V3- 6A
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Description

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Getting There

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Bouldering

The bouldering at Lower Small Wall is for the most part, removed fro mthe climbing area. The majority of the boulders are down near the road. There are a couple of decent problems near the route Eggshell as well.

To find the bouldering area, drive through the RRG on highway 715 from Nada Tunnel, past Gladie Visitor Center, Tower Rock and when you near the pull-offs for LSW you'll see two large, chossy boulders on the left side of the road. Just past the second one is two pull-offs on the right (river) side of the road. Park in the second one. Cross the road, climb the short bank and beeline into the woods. You should first encounter The Weasel Boulder. It's road side face is round-ish, slightly overhanging and flat gray.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Small Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Good Tang
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Dicey at Best
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Blue Biner
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Good Tang
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Dicey at Best
 24
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Blue Biner
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lower Small Wall »

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Justin Veenhuis
Ferndale, MI
Justin Veenhuis   Ferndale, MI
Getting there
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 5.2 miles (0.7 miles from the pulloff for Tower) to a pulloff on the right. The pulloff will be directly across from a wide, rectangular boulder on the left side of the road. Hike uphill just right of the boulder following a faint trail. When the trail ends, head straight up to the wall. You will probably end up somewhere around the vicinity of Blue Biner. If you are lost when you get to the wall, just look for an obvious, sharp, clean and wide dihedral which is Dicey at Best. Jan 14, 2018

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