Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ed Pearsall, Jay Collins
Page Views: 700 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso Spelding, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

The Spider Squat is rated three stars in Ray Ellington's guide (3rd ed), but it should be avoided due to a gigantic (and pretty much unavoidable) nest of poison ivy on a ledge at the top of the first pitch. It is nearly impossible to step around, and more than likely you will stick your head right in it as you try to get onto the ledge. At the very least, wear pants and long sleeves.
The climbing is decent but not amazing. The route finding after the first pitch was very confusing. After climbing a crack in decent left-facing dihedral on the first pitch, you arrive at a large ledge under a giant overhang. Moving up and left and traversing around a bulge gets you to another large ledge. Where the route goes from there is anybody's guess. From Ellington's description we couldn't figure it out, and so we rapped off a large tree.

Location

About 100 ft to the left (facing the cliff) of Dicey at Best is a large left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard trad rack

Photos

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