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Routes in Lower Small Wall
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Aptly Named V0+ 4+ |
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Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dicey at Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Good Tang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hierarchy V1 5 |
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Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love Hurts V2- 5+ |
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Marching Band V2- 5+ PG13 |
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Seven-Ten Split V0 4 |
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Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tipsy V1 5 |
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Weasel, The V3- 6A |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Pearsall, Jay Collins |
| Page Views: | 832 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Jun 8, 2014 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
The Spider Squat is rated three stars in Ray Ellington's guide (3rd ed), but it should be avoided due to a gigantic (and pretty much unavoidable) nest of poison ivy on a ledge at the top of the first pitch. It is nearly impossible to step around, and more than likely you will stick your head right in it as you try to get onto the ledge. At the very least, wear pants and long sleeves.
The climbing is decent but not amazing. The route finding after the first pitch was very confusing. After climbing a crack in decent left-facing dihedral on the first pitch, you arrive at a large ledge under a giant overhang. Moving up and left and traversing around a bulge gets you to another large ledge. Where the route goes from there is anybody's guess. From Ellington's description we couldn't figure it out, and so we rapped off a large tree.
The climbing is decent but not amazing. The route finding after the first pitch was very confusing. After climbing a crack in decent left-facing dihedral on the first pitch, you arrive at a large ledge under a giant overhang. Moving up and left and traversing around a bulge gets you to another large ledge. Where the route goes from there is anybody's guess. From Ellington's description we couldn't figure it out, and so we rapped off a large tree.
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