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Routes in Lower Small Wall

Aptly Named V0+ 4+
Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dicey at Best T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Tang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hierarchy V1 5
Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Hurts V2- 5+
Seven-Ten Split V0 4
Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weasel, The V3- 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Pearsall, Jay Collins
Page Views: 180 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jordan K on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

The Spider Squat is rated three stars in Ray Ellington's guide (3rd ed), but it should be avoided due to a gigantic (and pretty much unavoidable) nest of poison ivy on a ledge at the top of the first pitch. It is nearly impossible to step around, and more than likely you will stick your head right in it as you try to get onto the ledge. At the very least, wear pants and long sleeves.
The climbing is decent but not amazing. The route finding after the first pitch was very confusing. After climbing a crack in decent left-facing dihedral on the first pitch, you arrive at a large ledge under a giant overhang. Moving up and left and traversing around a bulge gets you to another large ledge. Where the route goes from there is anybody's guess. From Ellington's description we couldn't figure it out, and so we rapped off a large tree.

Location

About 100 ft to the left (facing the cliff) of Dicey at Best is a large left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard trad rack

Photos

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