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Routes in Lower Small Wall
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Aptly Named V0+ 4+ |
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Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dicey at Best T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Good Tang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hierarchy V1 5 |
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Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love Hurts V2- 5+ |
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Seven-Ten Split V0 4 |
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Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weasel, The V3- 6A |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Larry Day, Frank Becker 1974 |
| Page Views: | 2,904 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
From the ground, for the grade, this is a very intimidating route. If your leading limit is 5.7 then you may want to follow this one first.
Well right of Dicey at Best find a deep dark dihedral with big roofs above.
Climb up relatively easy ground to a stance below the first roof. Shorter people will be forced to stretch for good holds above.
Climb up to a ledge above the second roof (sneak left to keep the grade moderate) and belay.
Continue up a wider crack to the top of the wall. Rap the route with two ropes or find some other way down.
Well right of Dicey at Best find a deep dark dihedral with big roofs above.
Climb up relatively easy ground to a stance below the first roof. Shorter people will be forced to stretch for good holds above.
Climb up to a ledge above the second roof (sneak left to keep the grade moderate) and belay.
Continue up a wider crack to the top of the wall. Rap the route with two ropes or find some other way down.
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