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Routes in Lower Small Wall

Aptly Named V0+ 4+
Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dicey at Best T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Tang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hierarchy V1 5
Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Hurts V2- 5+
Seven-Ten Split V0 4
Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weasel, The V3- 6A
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Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Day, Frank Becker 1974
Page Views: 1,970 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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From the ground, for the grade, this is a very intimidating route. If your leading limit is 5.7 then you may want to follow this one first.

Well right of Dicey at Best find a deep dark dihedral with big roofs above.

Climb up relatively easy ground to a stance below the first roof. Shorter people will be forced to stretch for good holds above.

Climb up to a ledge above the second roof (sneak left to keep the grade moderate) and belay.

Continue up a wider crack to the top of the wall. Rap the route with two ropes or find some other way down.


Hike right from Dicey at Best and find a decent but spooky looking crack system in a big dihedral.


Standard RRG rack, take slings and wider gear for the finish.


I would recommend linking the first 2 pitches. It ends at a set of chain anchors. When climbign through the second roof if you stay in the right crack the grade is closer to 5.9, but you can escape left and keep it mellow. The chimney at the top will require some big gear, a #5 at a minimum and a #6bd would also come in handy although I did it without. The veiws from the top are worth the squeeze!! Mar 13, 2013
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
Best trad 5.7 in the gorge! Get on this thing! Oct 13, 2018

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