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Routes in Lower Small Wall

Aptly Named V0+ 4+
Blue Biner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caterpillar Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
DAB Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Der Kommissar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dicey at Best T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Caves Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Tang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hierarchy V1 5
Lost Dart T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Lost Dart Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Hurts V2- 5+
Seven-Ten Split V0 4
Spider Squat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weasel, The V3- 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 373 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Nov 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

In most guidebooks this is listed as a 5.2. That is a fairly rediculous grade to apply to this route. It is slightly harder.

DAB stands for "Dicey at Best" which is the route that begins off the ledge that this route ends on. You can scramble up on the ledge to the right and begin that route, or set up a top rope on this route.

And you can top rope this route. You can build a gear anchor out of horizontals on the wall above the ledge.

This is a chimney/offwidth. It takes a bit out of you physically, but it's fun a good route to practice your wide crack technique on.

Location

From Lost Dart walk along the wall to the right. Look for a very distinct, yellow dihedral with a clean crack that ends under a huge roof. There is a ledge below it with a wide dihedral at the left edge. This is DAB Chimney.

Protection

Big stuuf, huge cams and/or big-bros. There are no fixed anchors.

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