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Routes in Purple Valley

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
A Way of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burden of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain One Eye S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee Talk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Come In Your Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flaring Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Into the Purple Valley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love Shack, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pebbly Poo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pleasant Surprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shish-kebab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Social Butterfly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 1,097 ft
GPS: 37.901, -83.638 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,632 total · 70/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike


The routes at Purple Valley are unique for the area and typically aesthetic in appearance and the way they climb. A few routes top out, and most are 50 feet or longer. While Purple is popular, it is not odd to be the only party at the cliff.

Getting There

Drive to the end of FS Rd. 9b. If you haven't been to Purple Valley in a few years the road now ends quite a bit earlier than it used to. Park same as Dip Wall, cross the creek, and walk the old gravel road to a second creek crossing. After passing a road on the right look for a faint trail on the right across from some old posts. This is the original approach trail.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Purple Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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its open now actually, and really nice. Did anyone find a chalk bag here? it would be at squeezy or into the purple valley, it was a international climber festival one and we would really like it back. pm me if you got it, thanks. May 25, 2016
They are currently doing road repairs on 9B. I heard it was supposed to be finished and opened back up last year, however it is still closed. So, who knows when it will be open again.. Apr 29, 2016
I am not sure if this is all the time or when it happened, but the gate is closed to FS road 9B all together, you have to hike down the whole thing, which is like 4 miles. Apr 25, 2016
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 5/08, the bridge over the creek is gated. You must park in the pull off just before the creek. To access the approach trail, continue on foot accross the creek. You will pass a marked trail on the right almost immediately after crossing the creek. Keep going and take the next trail to the right about 100 ft further. It's well worn once you cross the small meadow and start uphill. Jun 5, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
Sometimes the creek will come over the "bridge", in this case, park and hike the last few hundred feet up to the camping area and trail. In the fall of 2005 the Forest Service Road 9 was washed out and Andy Welter and I rode mountain bikes up to Purple Valley to climb. We weren't the only ones with that idea - another team was already there! Oct 26, 2007

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