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Routes in The Kentucky Wall

Blowing Your Lobe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bouldering Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coping Mechanism T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corn Syrup and Weed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dustin Stevenzes Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Lampwright's Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Macie's Pinnacle--Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ole Switcharoo, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Disappointment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Polar Opposites T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shake-N-Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shell Shocked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Spider Sanction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Squirrel Nut Zipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stay Tight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Up Yonder T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Whats Left of Kyle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13


This is a new backwoods trad crag in the Lower Gorge, located near Dip Wall. There are currently 16 routes ranging from 5.4-5.11, and there are plenty more lines yet to go in. It is pretty remote and the trail isn't great, so if you don't like adventure this isn't the place for you.

Getting There

Park and approach the same as Dip Wall, only do not turn right up the hill from the logging road. Continue on the logging road where you will cross a ditch and skirt around some down fall. The logging road will veer right and begin going up the hill. From here follow this road(it is a bit overgrown)until it splits. Take the road that leads you down into the drainage(left). Where the road meets the drainage, cross the creek and sidehill your way up into an adjacent drainage. At the top of this you will run into a limestone cave. Skirt around the cave to the left(or go through it) and work you way uphill and to the right. You are super close! Find another logging road that sits on the hill above the cave and walk east on it. At any point from here you can bushwhack up to the wall. If your Indian tracking skills are up to snuff, youll find a faint trail lead left from the logging road. This trail will lead you to a boulder that sits away from the wall. Go left at the boulder for 100ft then turn right at any point. Walk to the wall. You should come out near "Squirrel Nut Zipper", there are routes both right and left of this point. Remember, adventures are fun!

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Kentucky Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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If you're looking for great trad routes and adventure, look no further than Kentucky Wall. If you're really feeling adventurous and want to sample some of the best trad routes the red has to offer, follow lhrowland's link. Jun 28, 2017
Frankfort, Ky
lhrowland   Frankfort, Ky
This map has the Kentucky Wall routes on it, as well as many more backwoods trad climbs in the Red.… May 8, 2017

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