All Locations > Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge

Dunkan Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Dunkan Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beeneling, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dog Dreamin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Frenchburg Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	What's Left of the Beeneling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,015 ft
GPS:	37.84405, -83.64009 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,798 total · 61/month
Shared By:	Kevin Wagner on Nov 13, 2013
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

A unique wall in the Gorge with very few routes, but with three of the Red's best trad lines and one of the most beautiful top-outs as well. Frenchburg Overhangs is a fun, long climb with abundant holds and great protection that is a must do for any 5.8 trad leader. To the right are two classic and beautiful moderate crack climbs, The Beeneling and What's Left of the Beeneling. All routes top out via a short scramble climber's left of the large overhang at the end of the climbs although it is more easily accessible via Frenchburg Overhangs.

Getting There

Park in the pull-off for Phantasia wall (1 mile up the road from the intersection of KY 77 and KY 715) where the road turns. Walk back down the road a few minutes to another (small) pull-off and hike down to the creek. Cross the creek, and find the old trail (or don't) to the right of the small ridges and hike straight uphill to the cliff. Approach time 10-15 minutes, once you find it. The rock cliff is slightly visible from the approach.

GPS Coordinates for Frenchburg Overhangs : 37.844158, - 83.640057

4 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Dunkan Rock Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Dunkan Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 20 ● Frenchburg Overhangs Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 8 ● The Beeneling Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 10 ● What's Left of the Beeneling Trad