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Dunkan Rock

Kentucky > Red River Gorge

Description

A unique wall in the Gorge with very few routes, but with three of the Red's best trad lines and one of the most beautiful top-outs as well. Frenchburg Overhangs is a fun, long climb with abundant holds and great protection that is a must do for any 5.8 trad leader. To the right are two classic and beautiful moderate crack climbs, The Beeneling and What's Left of the Beeneling. All routes top out via a short scramble climber's left of the large overhang at the end of the climbs although it is more easily accessible via Frenchburg Overhangs.

Getting There

Park in the pull-off for Phantasia wall (1 mile up the road from the intersection of KY 77 and KY 715) where the road turns. Walk back down the road a few minutes to another (small) pull-off and hike down to the creek. Cross the creek, and find the old trail (or don't) to the right of the small ridges and hike straight uphill to the cliff. Approach time 10-15 minutes, once you find it. The rock cliff is slightly visible from the approach.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Frenchburg Overhangs
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
What's Left of the Beeneling
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
The Beeneling
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 1
Dog Dreamin'
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Frenchburg Overhangs
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
What's Left of the Beeneling
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Beeneling
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dog Dreamin'
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beautiful top-out in the Northern Red River Gorge.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful top-out in the Northern Red River Gorge.