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Routes in Dunkan Rock

Beeneling, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dog Dreamin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frenchburg Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Search of the Beeneling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Left of the Beeneling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nicole Meyer, Thomas Gilmore April 2017
Page Views: 88 total, 24/month
Shared By: Thomas Gilmore on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

To find the route, look for an obvious dihedral above some broken ledges 10 feet left of the starting ramp for Treason at the Watchtower.

Pitch 1: Climb the broken ledges to the base of the dihedral.

Pitch 2: (The money pitch) Climb the dihedral (5.10-). Take this pitch to the second large ledge with a giant tan boulder on it. Pitch 1 and 2 could be combined. From the first large ledge you can bail left (passing a sick looking presumably unclimbed overhanging wide crack) and scramble down a gully back to your pack or take on the wild, adventurous 3rd pitch.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ climb up the large tan boulder and wonder to yourself how you are going to traverse along the horizontal crack feature in front of you. Commit to some of the most improbable moves at the grade that you will do on a multipitch in the Red to arrive at the arete feature, then pull up onto the right side of the slab; delicately climb the slab to the top taking advantage of whatever gear you can find (tricams may be useful but we didn't have any). Top out to one of the best views in the Red

Decent: 2 rappels off some trees climbers left back to your packs.

Location

10 feet left of "Treason at the Watchtower", GPS: N37.84067° W83.63817°

Protection

Standard RRG double rack. Tricams or offset cams may be helpful on the last pitch

Photos

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