Elevation: 973 ft
GPS: 37.826, -83.562 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,521 total · 101/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Billy Simek
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

This is possibly the tallest cliff in the Red River Gorge, beautiful orange south facing rock with mostly very good quality. Several good multipitch routes and single pitch routes are on this cliff. Approach is about 45 minutes at a moderate pace.

Getting There

From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (do not take the curve to the left) for about 7.1 miles until you reach a one lane concrete bridge. Park just before the bridge on the left. Hike down to the river and NOT the osbourn bend trail, continue along the river upstream from the Concrete Bridge. Pay attention after passing a ledge traverse above the river. Look for a slabby, mossy boulder on the left right next to the trail. Soon after that there is a huge piano shaped boulder between the trail and the river. Just after the Piano Boulder you cross a muddy tributary and come to a flat open campsite. Take the road/trail that angles up the hill ahead of you, NOT the trail that continues along the river our of the campsite, shooting for a prominent tall buttress. When the trail nears the rock look for a faint trail that heads back left (west) along the base of the cliff. Look for a wide angling crack behind a large tree. This is the start of the route Foxfire. You don't need wide gear for this route. 

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Point Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 61
Foxfire
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 8
Blister in the Sun
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Day Dreaming
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Day Tripping
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Foxfire
 61
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 5 pitches
Blister in the Sun
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Day Dreaming
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Day Tripping
 30
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Point Buttress »

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