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Routes in Middle Small Wall

Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marmalade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quest, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Elevation: 1,081 ft
GPS: 37.824, -83.589 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,131 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike
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Description

Middle Small Wall is really the same formation as Lower Small Wall, but has been treated as a separate crag for several reasons. First off, the distance between the clusters of climbing on the two is greater between than to the road, a mere 10 minute approach, making two different approaches and parking areas more sensible. Additionally, the Middle Wall faces East and gets afternoon shade, whereas Lower Small Wall gets sun all day. The sun factor also seems to affect the rock, with more lichen and moss on some parts of the Middle Small Wall (and a few of the climbs) and fewer major features, creating a smoother cracked wall less given to face climbing. What they thankfully both have in common is stars galore- excellent routes, some of which are quite long. Frankly, I never understood why these were referred to as "Small" walls.
Some excellent climbs are here: The Quest, Handjob, Basecamp, Marmalade, and others. Some are multi-pitch.

Getting There

Drive 5.7 miles on Hwy715 past the intersection of Hwy 77. You pass the Gladie Creek Visitors center and Tower Rock. A pull-out on the right side of the road appears after a strong left hand curve and just before bending back right. A trail across the road from this pull-out leads uphill to the base of the cliff, arriving at a point between the large roof of Basecamp to the left, and the striking roof-capped dihedral of "The Quest" to the right.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Small Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Layback Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Marmalade
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Handjob
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 8
The Quest
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Layback Crack
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Marmalade
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Handjob
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Quest
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Middle Small Wall »

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