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Routes in Tower Rock
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Africa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Africa to Arachnid Traverse V0 4 |
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Anything You Want 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V-easy 3 X |
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Arachnid T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Caver's Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Curving Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dog Days T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Grease T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groundhog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grunges, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Heart of Darkness T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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I Love You in my Outside Voice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Insanity Ceiling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mighty Eidson T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salad Days T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South of Zimbabwe T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sundown V0 4 |
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Tower of Power T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.78311, -83.68299 |
| FA: | Unknown, 1950s |
| Page Views: | 20,965 total · 90/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Nov 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Location
Starts on the west side of Tower Rock at an obvious off-width crack, about 20' right of Razor's Edge/Curving Crack.
Description
Caver's Route is probably the oldest roped route in the RRG. No one knows for sure, but it dates back at least to the 1950s when a group of cavers were practicing their rope skills on the cliffs that towered over the Red River. The route ascends a gigantic fracture that splits the south end of Tower Rock from the rest of the monolith. The route is clean, fun and will leave you worn out.
Caver's Route can be done in various ways, but for optimum communication between leader and second, four short pitches is the way to go.
P1 - Starting at an obvious off-width crack, climb to a spacious ledge and belay. 5.3, 25'
P2 - From the ledge, work your way up into the first chimney and climb to another ledge, clipping a single bolt in the chimney about 30' up. 5.3, 50'
P3 - The cave pitch. From the belay, scramble up on blocks into the cave, then crawl slightly downward to a passage where you can see through to the other side of the tower. Worm your way through the passage into a narrow corridor, where you can stand and bring your partner(s) through. 50'
P4 - From the corridor, move up into the squeeze chimney above and climb past large blocks to a tree ledge. Climb a short flake feature to a spacious corridor topped by a bombay chimney. Find a way to gain the chimney (possibly the trickiest move of the whole route), then continue up to the top of the tower. 5.4, 100'
Descent
After topping out, look for a bolted glue-in anchor with chains on the West side of the tower (the side the route starts on, not the side near where you top out) a short 20’ rappel puts you on a ledge. Use the big rappel tree at the edge of the ledge, which is currently slung with a steel cable and rap rings. A full 60m rope barely gets you down the 30m rappel, which puts you a bit climbers left of the routes start.
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