Avg: 3.7 from 88 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Tom Seibert, Larry Day, 1974|
|Page Views:||4,394 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Chaney on Nov 4, 2006|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionDon't be overly intimidated by this route. Oh, it's everything it appears from the ground, but the roof is actually pretty casual.
The initial dihedral is classic hands and/or layback. The upper part is much wider, but there are lots of big face holds after the offwidth section.
If you have a big-bro, the place for it is out at the lip of the roof. Try to avoid putting a cam in the crack in the roof, as the rope has a tendency to pull into the crack and wreak havoc with any camming device by either slipping behind it or driving it deeper into the crack. It's almost better to run it out than to place a big cam there.
This is a great route fo rhte grade, it will make you work for it and will leave you with a climbing experience that you won't forget.
LocationThis route is located on the east face of Tower Rock. It can be identified as a distinctly classic looking dihedral capped by a roof, with a wide crack exiting to the right and continuing up an acute dihedral.
ProtectionHand sized and bigger. The lower crack works best with cams and the upper section works good with hexes. The lip of the roof is best protected by a big-bro (not sure which size) or alternately, layback the OW and keep your rope out to the left of the crack if you place a cam inside.
There are bolt anchors.