Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Hemken, Jeff Hemken, Tom Philbin - 1979
Page Views: 984 total · 9/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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A nice, discontinuous big crack system that's stiff for the grade. Bring big gear!

Start at an obvious crack; follow this as it jogs left and right, passing some overhangs along the way. Top out on roots and pine needles.


Starts about 25' right of the Grunges. Rap from a big pine with slings and rap rings.


Mostly medium cams and passive pro; several large pieces (up to #6 tech friend) are needed if you're going to protect this adequately.


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Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I had forgotten Jeff had an FA in the Gorge! Also, Tom Philbin was part of the team: the name was suggested by something he said. Nov 3, 2009
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Doug -- thanks for the update, I've included it in the route description.

It's funny, I'd hauled some of my big cams (#4 Camalot, #5 and #6 Tech Friends) with me this trip but hadn't used them, so I told my partner I was going to rack up with them on Salad Days just as a kind of joke. I was glad I did because I used all three on the onsight! Cool route. Nov 3, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Thirty years ago I think I had a total of 3 or 4 Friends (rigid stem) on my rack, in the 1-2 inch size. I would have had a #11 hex for big gear. We were using tube chocks in those days - among 6-8 of us we had one set we passed around. But I doubt I had them for this route, because the three of us did it as a spur of the moment thing. Only time I ever climbed it.

Back then Tower Rock was still a very popular place to crag, and "Caver's" and "Mighty Eidson" were first climbs for scores of beginners (and were therefore popular as first leads, too). I find it a little eerie now to go there and to Half Moon and not see anyone climbing! Nov 4, 2009