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Routes in Tower Rock

Africa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arachnid T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caver's Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Curving Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog Days T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mighty Eidson T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Salad Days T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squeezebox T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Hemken, Jeff Hemken, Tom Philbin - 1979
Page Views: 884 total, 9/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

A nice, discontinuous big crack system that's stiff for the grade. Bring big gear!

Start at an obvious crack; follow this as it jogs left and right, passing some overhangs along the way. Top out on roots and pine needles.

Location

Starts about 25' right of the Grunges. Rap from a big pine with slings and rap rings.

Protection

Mostly medium cams and passive pro; several large pieces (up to #6 tech friend) are needed if you're going to protect this adequately.

Photos

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Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Thirty years ago I think I had a total of 3 or 4 Friends (rigid stem) on my rack, in the 1-2 inch size. I would have had a #11 hex for big gear. We were using tube chocks in those days - among 6-8 of us we had one set we passed around. But I doubt I had them for this route, because the three of us did it as a spur of the moment thing. Only time I ever climbed it.

Back then Tower Rock was still a very popular place to crag, and "Caver's" and "Mighty Eidson" were first climbs for scores of beginners (and were therefore popular as first leads, too). I find it a little eerie now to go there and to Half Moon and not see anyone climbing! Nov 4, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Doug -- thanks for the update, I've included it in the route description.

It's funny, I'd hauled some of my big cams (#4 Camalot, #5 and #6 Tech Friends) with me this trip but hadn't used them, so I told my partner I was going to rack up with them on Salad Days just as a kind of joke. I was glad I did because I used all three on the onsight! Cool route. Nov 3, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I had forgotten Jeff had an FA in the Gorge! Also, Tom Philbin was part of the team: the name was suggested by something he said. Nov 3, 2009