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Routes in Tower Rock

Africa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arachnid T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caver's Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Curving Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog Days T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groundhog T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insanity Ceiling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mighty Eidson T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Salad Days T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squeezebox T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Seibert, Rich Gottlieb, 1974
Page Views: 2,485 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 20, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Though Dog Days and Africa lack the beautiful aesthetic of their perfect corner of a neighbor, appearing to be rough and chunky, they are both good lines. Both of these are surprisingly good climbs on good stone. More surprising still is that either one is harder and more pumpy than the large roof cap on Arachnid.

To climb Africa, start on the crack near the continental outline, where good jamming takes you up a small distance past the 'map' to a good stance at a pod in the crack. From this stance, further jamming and some face holds on vertical rock take you past increasingly physical climbing on less positive jams (5.9, crux) to a second pod inteh crack below an overhang of dark rock, perhaps 60 feet up. This is where the route Madagascar joins Africa. Jam and jug over the roof on less difficult climbing (5.8?) and continue in a crack and corner system to the top of the climb on a larger ledge. Some clever groveling up and left can be made to lead you to the top of the rock as for Dog Days and Arachnid.

Location

Just left of the obvious capped dihedral of Arachnid lie two more cracks, the left being Dog Days and the right being Africa. The name 'Africa' was inspired by a dark patch of rock near the base that resembles a continental outline of its namesake.

Protection

A few med-large stoppers and cams from thin hands to wide hands. A few longer slings are good bofore the pods & overhang, and when coming out of the pod up top, into the crack and corner system.

Photos

esha  
Can anyone point out to me where this supposed shape of Africa is on or near this route? I must have a poor imagination..... Nov 5, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
At the base, to the left. You can't see it in these photos. Nov 5, 2010
Rob R.
Chicago, IL
 
Rob R.   Chicago, IL
 
While you can't see them from the ground, there are rap rings at the second alcove. Jun 28, 2011
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
 
Kevin Wagner   Tucson, AZ
 
Save a bd number 4 for the top of the 2nd pitch or risk a ledge fall if you blow the dirty topout. Oct 14, 2013
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
Continued on past the first set of anchors to the slung tree. Wouldn't recommend it. The fun meat of the climb goes up to the chains, after that you get mostly easier climbing on mediocre quality rock. Additionally, the top was guarded by a decent sized spider/web when I climbed it, which had to be dispatched with a whack from a #3 Camalot before continuing.

Nice line up to the chains though. Sep 29, 2016
Grant Gibson
Cincinnati, OH
Grant Gibson   Cincinnati, OH
Climbed it for the first time in 2009 and then again this past weekend. Great line. I forgot about the awesomeness of Tower Rock and felt good to visit. Just wish some folks would go a little lighter on the chalk (or use none). Takes away from the guessing game. Bottom line, can't go wrong with old classics like Africa. Nov 7, 2016

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