Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: R. Gottlieb, G. Hancock, '76
Page Views: 1,524 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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A good route at Tower, but less frequently done than others due to it's less striking initial appearance. Still, this is one of the better moderate lines at the cliff, yet pumpy for it's grade. Locate the crack to climber's right of Arachnid and climb the crack and well-featured rock through a steep spot to end of the crack and then up face movies to join another system, which leads to a ledge with slings around some trees. Rap back to the base from these fixed anchors.


Follow the approach trail up the narrow end of Tower Rock and stay left around the end, continuing to the huge left facing corner and rockhouse with the handcrack (Arachnid). Backtrack 10 meters to the previous crack system, which is steep and pumpy.


A standard light rack to hand-sized.


Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a great route if you are in the area to do Africa and Arachnid. Quality climbing, feels like a sport route but you can place gear in the crack systems. The last 6 Ft. to the anchors involves literally climbing a vertical dirt face(10/07). The roots that may have been used on the original ascent are now very loose. It's a shame that this ends up as the finish for such a great route. Oct 16, 2007
max seigal
max seigal   boulder
Along with the above comment, this is a wonderful route, except the last 10 feet or so are very uncomfortable because you are scrambling on a vertical dirt face grabbing on to tiny roots! If there were bolted anchors, this route could make a classic. Nov 3, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
In the late 80' to early 90's I do not think that there was a vertical dirt face up top. I'd presume then that what has happened is that the loss of the vegetation's hold on the cliff has allowed land to slide. No? Maybe I am just forgetting. Nov 4, 2007
I would have enjoyed this route much more as well had there been an anchor at the top. I too had to pull on some tiny little roots to top out the cliff. I suppose a number of people doing this over the years has contributed to some significant erosion around the rappel tree. Nov 5, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
How attitudes change! The fact that it is possible to top out on this climb used to be part of the attraction. The final part was always a mess and therefore the mental crux, even before the fire that set off the massive modern erosion from the top of Tower. Nov 5, 2010
Yeah but pulling on roots and clawing into dirt isn't really rock climbing. It certainly adds to the mental crux though, I can't argue that. Nov 5, 2010
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
This climb would warrant more stars if the anchor situation was addressed. We ended up bailing before the top on the jug feature just before the top-out. A set of glue-in bolts could easily be placed on the bulge out left. The top-out when I tried it had nothing to grab. All the dirt was dry and ready to cut loose. You could even see where the TR's were grinding through the mud at the top. I don't mind some fun and creative adventure, but that top-out was neither. Oct 24, 2012
there are now anchors below the dirty topout Jun 5, 2017
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
shh...this is a no bolting area! Jun 5, 2017