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Routes in Indian Creek

Better Red than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gizmo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Like its namesake in Utah, Indian Creek contains an abundance of quality crack lines. But the highlight of this crag are the massive offwidth roofs up to 20 feet-literly feet. But oddly enough the name meens more to this crag than any other in the Red, and its the line Crack Attack, a Classic that looks like it should be in Utah. The wall has a number of buttresses which create different aspects and rock characteristics that directly affect route quality.

Getting There

Drive down Forest Service Road 9B 2.9 miles to a concrete dam/bridge. Continue 0.6 miles where the road makes a curve to the left with wood pylons on the outside of the turn. Park in the campsite ahead or off the side of the road. Walk back to the pylons and locate a small trail that you'll follow strait back towards a campsight until you find an old logging road that cuts uphill left. Hike the old road for 150 feet and head uphill right to a ridge and turn right uphill on th ridge until you see a small pinnacle and your there.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slimy Creatures
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood on the Nuts
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack Attack
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jim's Dihedral
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slimy Creatures
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Blood on the Nuts
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack Attack
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jim's Dihedral
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Indian Creek »

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Info provided taken from guidebook. Thanks Ray! Sorry to rip the info. Sep 11, 2014
Chicago, IL
CCas   Chicago, IL
First... w/ 9b re-opening, the guidebook mileage is wrong as things have changed back there and the road ends much earlier then before the renovation. That said, add aat least an additional 10-15 minutes on all the approaches launching from the new parking area for Purple Valley (ie. the end of the road).

Next, Indian Creek... from the "new" Purple Valley parking area you have to walk across the stream and continue down the obvious road for about 7-10 minutes. It is very overgrown, but on the right you will see two metal/wood pylons w/ small rock cairns on top. If you hit "T" intersection w/ the stream, you have went too far (about 15 minute walk). Again, hard to see in the brush... someone should put a sign for the climbing community, but that is the start of the approach trail for Indian Creek.

After that is a complete crap shoot... Partner and I lost a full day and a half trying to find this area and essentially bushwhacked for hours. We found rock back there, but it definitely wasn't what we were looking for (some definite potential though - lol)...

Can a local who need to bank some good "juju" and knows where they are going, pls provide explicit step-by-step instructions w/ tangible geographic markers for getting to this area from the approach trail described above and spare the rest of the trad climbing community the misery that everyone has to suffer finding this crag? For example, do you ever cross the intial drainage at the end of the short grassy path or are you always keeping it to your right? There is another trail that heads left and as you are heading up that... I am prety sure it forks. Do you stay left or right? Once you hit the area where the ground flattens out do you veer left or right?

Soo many questions and soo few answers and any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, WTF is a "logging road" mentioned multiple times in the guidebook, because that must have a completely different meaning in KY. From where I am from they are pretty obvious... In KY it looks like it means a barely visible completely overgrown (maybe even never a trail) trail that constantly makes you question if it is even a trail at all - lol. Sep 5, 2016
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
There never was good directions. But in general the directions provided should work. Park at the end of 9b, cross the creek and follow the old main gravel road for a few minutes and look for the pylons on the right. If you see concrete/steel posts next to the road before a second creek crossing you're in the right place. From there the main area is up and on the left side of the drainage behind the posts. Bushwhack to the wall. The Island is on the main western corner. Oct 21, 2016
B. L.
New York, NY
B. L.   New York, NY
Also had a very hard time finding this. If you head to 37.89672, -83.6412 using a car GPS, you'll come to a parking lot that has a gate not letting you go further down the road. Start walking.. we crossed a little stream before getting to a dam in the creek, and wading over to the other side there (so we turned right). You bushwack on the other side of the creek for 3-4 mins before reaching a nice gravel road by a wooden sign where you turn left (I think this road may just be for service vehicles?). Walk down that road (for maybe 10-15 mins.. I forget) until you see a trail cut off to the right. It will have some very short wooden posts by the entrance (and there was a cairn on one of the posts). Follow that trail.. it will soon wind up a hill to your left. At the top of the hill, follow it to your right on top of the ridge. Keep on it until you find some big rocks.. at which point you'll follow the trail to the left of them until you find your climb. Crack attack was 14mins hike on the trail since we first came across the rocks. I think the hike back to the car park from Crack attack (which is pretty deep after the first rocks) took 45 mins or so. Hope this helps someone. Jun 5, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Basically, BL has it right. The first half of the directions are getting to the other side of East Fork Indian Creek (EFIC the main creek). If the water is low, hop on the rocks straight out from the new parking area where the road now ends and continue on the old forest road. Alternatively, you can walk further upstream as BL mentions, crossing a smaller feeder stream, and then crossing EFIC at the little check-dam. From that point you can follow a small trail that will put you on the old forest old a little further up.

~15min walk to the posts is about right once you're on the other side of the EFIC. The trail was fairly obvious behind the posts on the right. Keep following the trail UP the's damn steep in a few spots. The trail to the left is pretty obvious when you hit the first rock formation. ~45min - 1hr is about right to-from the car. Nov 27, 2017

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