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Routes in Indian Creek

Better Red than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gizmo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Souders, Dave Veldhaus, 1989
Page Views: 2,420 total, 23/month
Shared By: Chad Wagner on Apr 13, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb easy ground to the roof and get as high as you can to get some gear in the roof. Step back down and right to a slab and climb straight up to a heady move and step left back into the crack. Throw in some gear and enjoy the finger and hand crack up to a small ledge. Get it back and finger lock up the last portion to the bolted anchor.

The direct version which is straight up the roof goes at 11d

Location

Climbers right of the approach along the wall 5 minutes. The obvious splitter finger crack all the way up the face.

Protection

finger and a few hand pieces and a grey metolius or black alien for the roof

Photos

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Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.11b/c
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.11b/c
I did the regular version. Tricky slab crux, but it isn't too bad once you figure it out. While it definitely gets your attention, the gear is good and the fall is clean (yes, I fell). I was able to get a bomber green alien and a green C3 right under the roof before the crux. Clip them with longer draws and you're good to go. May 20, 2017
Chad Wagner  
 
Ditto on the direct but cant relate to the scary original(backed down from fear of dying, your gon die) be sure to bring the ultra small gear for direct, and sport mentality. Sep 11, 2014
nickehman
Fresno, CA
 
nickehman   Fresno, CA
 
dirrect was challenging. the normal was desperate. May 24, 2012
Dustin Stephens
  5.11c
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11c
The direct version is better protected, better climbing, and not much harder. Feb 20, 2012