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Routes in Indian Creek

Better Red than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gizmo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tim Schlachter, Chuck Keller, 1991.
Page Views: 2,105 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jim Dinan on Dec 10, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

An all-around pleasant climb. Jam, stem, and jug haul your way through a pleasant crack climb for 60 feet until you reach a few seemingly intimidating roof/ledges. Ignore the instinct to bury your head in the crack and identify good feet that are all around. Proceed on up to where the crack flares and choose between equally good chimney and stemming options. Sling a couple trees and enjoy a great view.

Location

Follow the approach trail and head right after a large boulder on your right. Don't bother scrambling up here, it's much easier to walk around. Proceed a few hundred feet along the wall to locate this right-facing dihedral. When you're at the route, there will be a good-sized open cave to your right.

Protection

The crack will take thin/finger-sized gear deep-in toward the bottom of the route. This gets harder to find as you go up and there are many good fist-sized placements. Bring some #2 Camalots and plenty of #3s. Don't ignore the horizontals, as there is also some good gear outside the crack. Big pro (#4-#6 Camalots) is helpful for the wide section at the top. Two of #5 or #6 is great here, but one piece will get you through and add a little excitement.

After you exit the wide section and pass a dead-looking tree on your left, there is a medium-sized tree ahead and 15 feet above this, a larger tree at the top-out. A 70m rope will get you down from the larger tree on top.
Jordan K
Ohio
 
Jordan K   Ohio
 
Fun climbing! Surprisingly steep for 5.7 with a couple thought provoking moves, but good jams and good face holds are always there when you need them!

At the top, you first come across a small tree which does not inspire much confidence for rapping. About 10-15 ft higher is another tree (pine) that is better rooted and has a number of old slings around it plus two old non-locking biners. We added some new webbing to back up the old tat and rapped with a 60m rope no problem. This easily got us to the ground. There might be a better rap station higher still, but that would likely require the 70m rope or a double rope rap.
We broke this into two pitches with a hanging belay on a small ledge at approximate midpoint, but I wouldn't recommend this.

Note: I'm not sure it's worth adding the route itself, but we were scoping out "Gizmo," the 5.8 immediately to the right of Slimy Creatures and never saw any rap anchors for that climb. It may require topping out and rapping off the Slimy Creatures tree -- not sure. Jun 8, 2014