Avg: 2.3 from 23 votes
Routes in Indian Creek
|Better Red than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Gizmo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Tim Schlachter, Chuck Keller, 1991.|
|Page Views:||2,105 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Dinan on Dec 10, 2011|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionAn all-around pleasant climb. Jam, stem, and jug haul your way through a pleasant crack climb for 60 feet until you reach a few seemingly intimidating roof/ledges. Ignore the instinct to bury your head in the crack and identify good feet that are all around. Proceed on up to where the crack flares and choose between equally good chimney and stemming options. Sling a couple trees and enjoy a great view.
LocationFollow the approach trail and head right after a large boulder on your right. Don't bother scrambling up here, it's much easier to walk around. Proceed a few hundred feet along the wall to locate this right-facing dihedral. When you're at the route, there will be a good-sized open cave to your right.
ProtectionThe crack will take thin/finger-sized gear deep-in toward the bottom of the route. This gets harder to find as you go up and there are many good fist-sized placements. Bring some #2 Camalots and plenty of #3s. Don't ignore the horizontals, as there is also some good gear outside the crack. Big pro (#4-#6 Camalots) is helpful for the wide section at the top. Two of #5 or #6 is great here, but one piece will get you through and add a little excitement.
After you exit the wide section and pass a dead-looking tree on your left, there is a medium-sized tree ahead and 15 feet above this, a larger tree at the top-out. A 70m rope will get you down from the larger tree on top.