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Routes in Indian Creek

Better Red than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gizmo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Bailey Chuck Keller Steve Faulkner Dave Foster Dave Wilson
Page Views: 11,183 total, 106/month
Shared By: Chad Wagner on Apr 14, 2009 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up to the ledge where this beautiful splitter crack begins. Push past the low roof with tight hands and prepare for one of the best handcracks in the red. Jam for the next 60 feet in the parallel sided crack until you hit the fist and offwidth section but its short lived. Clip the anchors and remind your self that your in the Red.

Location

Walk towards the Fibrulator and pass it staying along the wall. The next line you come across will be Crack Attack. (37.893898, -83.636811)

Protection

Multiple Camming units in the hand size and a fist size. This crack doesn't vary much in size so bring at least 4 #2 camalots or equivilent to stretch it thin.
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
 
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
 
One of the nicest handcracks east of....anywhere. May 20, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9+
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9+
Doubles from #1-#3 (camalot C4) is enough if you were to place the right ones at the right times and space them out a bit, plan well. That being said, I sewed it up quite nicely (gear was never more than a foot below my feet) with: 2x#1, 4x#2, 2x#3.

Amazing climb, worth every second of the approach even if this was the only climb you did. Apr 17, 2017
Grant Gibson
Cincinnati, OH
  5.9+
Grant Gibson   Cincinnati, OH
  5.9+
Beautiful splitter. Didn't rack or need any #4s. Got about 3/4 the way up and a jam slipped out. Took about a 20 ft whipper on a #1. As mentioned above placement are bomber. Apr 7, 2017
I agree on the 5.9+ grade to Indian Creek standards. It is also pretty short for Indian Creek.

I put a .75 at the base of the crack on a sling, ran out until the possibility for a ground fall, then put a 2. After that I did a 1, one more 2, a 3, and a 4 right at pod before the chains.

So total for me was .75, 2, 1, 2, 3, 4. I think one could do it safely without the 4. Like Indian Creek climbing, you just know all the gear is perfect and the falls are clean. Superb climb. Sep 19, 2016
Chad Wagner  
 
Indian Creek grade would probably stand true at 9+. Its so varied that it may not warrant a 10, and very short for creek standards. And about pro, I soloed it last time I was there so you don't need gear at all. TOOT TOOT, yep that's my own horn. My friends felt good with(camalots) 1-1 3-2 2-3 and 1-3.5 and that's about every 6.5 feet. And they all agreed the top felt hard. Sep 11, 2014
Kevin DB  
 
"I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek."

Probably 5.10- Aug 30, 2014
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
I placed four golds, four reds, two blues, and a green and felt comfortable. You can certainly do with less, but if you are a crack wuss like me, a bigger rack might make you feel more comfortable. Also, I may have broken my foot jamming this thing. Mar 20, 2011
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome climb! Wish it went on forever :) Yea, can be done with 2 each of #1, #2, #3. But the more #2s the better... Oct 25, 2010
Peter L K
Cincinnati, OH
Peter L K   Cincinnati, OH
I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek. Jun 7, 2010
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.9+
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.9+
one of the best cracks in the south!! May 27, 2010
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
I don't entirely agree about bringing four #2's... the crack does vary a bit. I was able to safely do it with two #1's, two #2's, and two #3's, plus draws for the anchors. Nov 11, 2009
On a couple occasions I recall there being a damp section in the middle of the crack around where it doglegs right. Not enough to stay away, but a little more interesting that way.
Excellent splitter. Makes you rethink why this is called Indian Creek Crag. Apr 28, 2009