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Routes in Indian Creek

Better Red than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gizmo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bart Bledsoe
Page Views: 846 total · 33/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Oct 21, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

The kind of route which elicits the response, "What is THAT thing?" as most 20+ foot offwidth roofs do. A must do for those interested in hard wide climbing. Considering how little traffic this route gets, it's a wonder it isn't totally overgrown (unlike the 5.8 approach pitch).

Climb either Not Ice or a dirty/loose 5.8 crack to the left of it and belay right below the roof. Proceed through handstacks and kickthroughs, finishing with a strenuous pivot into the chimney.

Location

50 yards right of Slimy Creatures is an enormous roof with a big crack in it. You can't miss it!

Protection

Two bolt belay, could be backed up with .75 and 1 camalots. The crack itself takes a 2 camalot, with doubles of 4, 5, and 6.

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