Jacob Ward > Comments
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Nov 5, 2025
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So good!! Really cool moves, do this route! I found traversing in from hard right to be the best way to sta…
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Oct 4, 2025
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Should never be bolted. I love sport climbing as much as the next guy, but it's ok for some routes to be sp…
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Mar 9, 2025
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Incredible Route! Lots of 5.11/12- climbing with a crux at mid height and a final redpoint crux at the very…
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Dec 24, 2024
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Zero bolts, zero fixed gear FA by Jaden Geor, myself, and Armand. Bring lots of .1 sized cams. Red z4, blac…
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Nov 27, 2024
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12b face to 12c roof? Felt more like 11d face to a complete rest to a 13a roof imo. It's cool how subjectib…
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Jun 17, 2024
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Some thoughts and beta on this route: •Jessie is right, this is world class. Truly one of the best pitches…
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May 12, 2024
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Can confirm that Curtis has the best beta for passing the first bolt. Feels like V3/4 using the hold out ri…
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Sep 7, 2023
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Campusing on half-pads would only be the beta for someone with terrible footwork. There's usable footholds…
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May 9, 2023
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Super super good route, the crux has some of the coolest movement I've done in the area. I match my left fo…
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Feb 6, 2023
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For anyone wanting to do a dumb toprope squeeze-job, climb up the slab between this and whisky for breakfas…
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May 10, 2022
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You don't need 2 ropes or an 80m to get down. Just keep kicking off the wall while rappelling and you'll ea…
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Feb 15, 2022
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The standard beta seems to be using the two sidepulls out right, but it feels easier to me to just ride the…
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Jul 10, 2021
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I'm confused comparing these comments to the topo in the book. I only see one set of anchors that are share…
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Apr 24, 2021
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Fun route, more people should be getting on this! The pro is a little finicky at the bottom, I was happy to…
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Jan 12, 2021
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You can place a bomber nut pretty easily by reaching high up from the jug below the crux seam. I placed a r…
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Jan 1, 2021
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Double length sling on the second bolt with a draw clipped to the bottom is definitely the way to go, in ad…
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Nov 5, 2020
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Cool technical movement. Didn't really feel like a slab, more like vertical crimping. You could make it eas…
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Sep 4, 2020
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Might be a bit easier than 11d, but it's definitely harder than Sailing Shoes. Maybe if you climbed out lef…
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May 25, 2020
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The first pitch is better than it looks, easy off width to a short juggy face. Second pitch is phenomenal,…
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May 13, 2020
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I think I stayed in the crack for too long before going up. I ended up having to traverse about 30 feet to…
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Aug 15, 2019
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At 5'8" the first move felt harder than many 5.12 cruxes I've done. I'd imagine it'd be a lot easier with a…
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Aug 11, 2019
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Well the crux beta definitely isn't a dyno to a fingerlock like I was doing at first. A left hand sidepull/…
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Aug 11, 2019
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I stood on my toes and reached high to place a yellow Mastercam from the ground. This protected the first c…
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Jul 11, 2019
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One of the best sport climbs I've ever been on. On the first go I got scared of taking the fall at the star…
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Jun 27, 2019
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Heads up on the start, the gear is good but somewhat strenuous to place. The route starts hard and gets pro…
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May 21, 2019
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There's now two permadraws at the last two bolts which makes hanging the draws a breeze.
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May 14, 2019
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Very onsight-able for the grade. Not to say that it's soft, but just make a plan for the boulder problem an…
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Mar 31, 2019
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Finding the sit-down rest at the second to last bolt helps big time for having some juice left to get to th…
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Mar 30, 2019
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The kneebar before the crux is nice, although not totally necessary since you don't climb very far to get t…
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Mar 6, 2019
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It's probably easier to stem as much as possible instead of lie-backing. ~Someome who lie-backed the who…
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Jan 28, 2019
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With some creativity you can finesse a bathang rest in a horizontal 2 bolts past the sit down rest.
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Dec 25, 2018
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Guidebook has it at 11a, which feels about right. Stiff for a 10.
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