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Nov 5, 2025
So good!! Really cool moves, do this route! I found traversing in from hard right to be the best way to sta… View Comment
Oct 4, 2025
Should never be bolted. I love sport climbing as much as the next guy, but it's ok for some routes to be sp… View Comment
Mar 9, 2025
Incredible Route! Lots of 5.11/12- climbing with a crux at mid height and a final redpoint crux at the very… View Comment
Dec 24, 2024
Zero bolts, zero fixed gear FA by Jaden Geor, myself, and Armand. Bring lots of .1 sized cams. Red z4, blac… View Comment
Nov 27, 2024
12b face to 12c roof? Felt more like 11d face to a complete rest to a 13a roof imo. It's cool how subjectib… View Comment
Jun 17, 2024
Some thoughts and beta on this route: •Jessie is right, this is world class. Truly one of the best pitches… View Comment
May 12, 2024
Can confirm that Curtis has the best beta for passing the first bolt. Feels like V3/4 using the hold out ri… View Comment
Sep 7, 2023
Campusing on half-pads would only be the beta for someone with terrible footwork. There's usable footholds… View Comment
May 9, 2023
Super super good route, the crux has some of the coolest movement I've done in the area. I match my left fo… View Comment
Feb 6, 2023
For anyone wanting to do a dumb toprope squeeze-job, climb up the slab between this and whisky for breakfas… View Comment
May 10, 2022
You don't need 2 ropes or an 80m to get down. Just keep kicking off the wall while rappelling and you'll ea… View Comment
Feb 15, 2022
The standard beta seems to be using the two sidepulls out right, but it feels easier to me to just ride the… View Comment
Jul 10, 2021
I'm confused comparing these comments to the topo in the book. I only see one set of anchors that are share… View Comment
Apr 24, 2021
Fun route, more people should be getting on this! The pro is a little finicky at the bottom, I was happy to… View Comment
Jan 12, 2021
You can place a bomber nut pretty easily by reaching high up from the jug below the crux seam. I placed a r… View Comment
Jan 1, 2021
Double length sling on the second bolt with a draw clipped to the bottom is definitely the way to go, in ad… View Comment
Nov 5, 2020
Cool technical movement. Didn't really feel like a slab, more like vertical crimping. You could make it eas… View Comment
Sep 4, 2020
Might be a bit easier than 11d, but it's definitely harder than Sailing Shoes. Maybe if you climbed out lef… View Comment
May 25, 2020
The first pitch is better than it looks, easy off width to a short juggy face. Second pitch is phenomenal,… View Comment
May 13, 2020
I think I stayed in the crack for too long before going up. I ended up having to traverse about 30 feet to… View Comment
Aug 15, 2019
At 5'8" the first move felt harder than many 5.12 cruxes I've done. I'd imagine it'd be a lot easier with a… View Comment
Aug 11, 2019
Well the crux beta definitely isn't a dyno to a fingerlock like I was doing at first. A left hand sidepull/… View Comment
Aug 11, 2019
I stood on my toes and reached high to place a yellow Mastercam from the ground. This protected the first c… View Comment
Jul 11, 2019
One of the best sport climbs I've ever been on. On the first go I got scared of taking the fall at the star… View Comment
Jun 27, 2019
Heads up on the start, the gear is good but somewhat strenuous to place. The route starts hard and gets pro… View Comment
May 21, 2019
There's now two permadraws at the last two bolts which makes hanging the draws a breeze. View Comment
May 14, 2019
Very onsight-able for the grade. Not to say that it's soft, but just make a plan for the boulder problem an… View Comment
Mar 31, 2019
Finding the sit-down rest at the second to last bolt helps big time for having some juice left to get to th… View Comment
Mar 30, 2019
The kneebar before the crux is nice, although not totally necessary since you don't climb very far to get t… View Comment
Mar 6, 2019
It's probably easier to stem as much as possible instead of lie-backing. ~Someome who lie-backed the who… View Comment
Jan 28, 2019
With some creativity you can finesse a bathang rest in a horizontal 2 bolts past the sit down rest. View Comment
Dec 25, 2018
Guidebook has it at 11a, which feels about right. Stiff for a 10. View Comment
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