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Routes in Screamweaver Area

Black Planet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boldfingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Head City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finishing School Blues T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free for All S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Friday the 13th T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Blend S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Leapin' Lizards T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping In Rhythm T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamweaver T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zydygo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kris Kline, Eddie Begoon (1985)
Page Views: 2,196 total · 19/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 2, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Boldfingers is a bad-ass route on great rock- classic NC hard trad. The climbing up to the crux is pumpy and fun, and the crux seam requires doing hard moves on small but good gear. While somewhat contrived, as there is an obvious weakness to the right, the direct start is also really cool (unprotected highball v4 boulder problem to a stance). Either way you do it, the route is killer.

Location

The route is just to the left of Static Klingon and Black Planet. It's the obvious crack system heading up the steep golden wall.

Protection

small cams up through a number 1 camalot with nuts (bring micros!) There is a bomber two-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
  5.12a PG13
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
  5.12a PG13
Probably my favorite hard route at the Bald so far. The climbing is super sporty and the crux sequence is on very textured, bomber rock. You could place some small wires and even a decent cam in the seam mid-crux, but I elected to place a couple of bomber mid-size pieces at the great horizontal and bust through. Dec 28, 2016

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