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Routes in Screamweaver Area

Black Planet T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boldfingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Head City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coldfingers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Finishing School Blues T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free for All S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Friday the 13th T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Blend S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Leapin' Lizards T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping In Rhythm T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamweaver T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zydygo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Buddy Brasington
Page Views: 1,309 total, 11/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Dec 31, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Good crimping will move you up and right past two bolts. Clip the bolt in the overhang and fire up, passing a hidden fixed pin to reach the pumpy finish. Rap from the tree at the top. Excellent and pumpy climbing.

Location

Begins right of Zydygo at a low bolt.

Protection

mixed, tcu's, camalots to red

Photos

jlane
5.11c
jlane  
5.11c
Great route!
After doing it several times over the years, I feel the consensus could be closer to 5.11c.
Also underneath the bulge, a perfect #2 Camolot can be placed before entering the bulge and clipping the bolt on the face. Jan 14, 2013