Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mathews, Hansen, Gaskin (1985)
Page Views: 3,516 total · 28/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 2, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

59 Opinions

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This is a fun route that looks harder than it is. While there is some choss-wrangling down low, the roof moves are pretty wild and fun. Definitely worth the effort if you're in the area.


To the left of Screamweaver. It's the huge friggin roof.


A rack of cams, a rack of nuts, and a slings.


The crux section protects well with 0.4" pieces. Placing the gear can be pumpy so don't fool around too much. Jan 18, 2010
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
I used ring locks to pull the roof. Don't be like me and miss the good holds. Oct 31, 2011
Raleigh, NC
sanz   Raleigh, NC
The holds are there. Pretty much a fun, steep boulder problem on gear. Hard to get back on the wall if you blow the crux following. Nov 7, 2011
Eric Middleton
Charlotte, NC
Eric Middleton   Charlotte, NC
Can't believe I am just now getting to this... But I found a large cam on this route earlier this year. If it is yours, please tell me the size and tape code, and I will work out how to get it to you. Thanks! Jun 18, 2016
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
With permission from both the FA party and the State Park, a bolted anchor has been placed in effort to reduce trampling on the fire-damaged topout; many climbers have been hiking off rather than rapping down and the park is in favor of discouraging this practice. Dec 18, 2017