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Routes in Screamweaver Area

Black Planet T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boldfingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Head City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coldfingers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Finishing School Blues T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free for All S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Friday the 13th T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Blend S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Leapin' Lizards T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping In Rhythm T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamweaver T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zydygo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mathews, Hansen, Gaskin (1985)
Page Views: 2,987 total, 28/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 2, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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This is a fun route that looks harder than it is. While there is some choss-wrangling down low, the roof moves are pretty wild and fun. Definitely worth the effort if you're in the area.


To the left of Screamweaver. It's the huge friggin roof.


A rack of cams, a rack of nuts, and a slings.
Eric Middleton
Charlotte, NC
Eric Middleton   Charlotte, NC
Can't believe I am just now getting to this... But I found a large cam on this route earlier this year. If it is yours, please tell me the size and tape code, and I will work out how to get it to you. Thanks! Jun 18, 2016
Raleigh, NC
sanz   Raleigh, NC
The holds are there. Pretty much a fun, steep boulder problem on gear. Hard to get back on the wall if you blow the crux following. Nov 7, 2011
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
I used ring locks to pull the roof. Don't be like me and miss the good holds. Oct 31, 2011
The crux section protects well with 0.4" pieces. Placing the gear can be pumpy so don't fool around too much. Jan 18, 2010