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Routes in Screamweaver Area

Black Planet T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boldfingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Head City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coldfingers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Finishing School Blues T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free for All S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Friday the 13th T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Blend S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Leapin' Lizards T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping In Rhythm T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamweaver T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zydygo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Ralph Fickel, Jeff Burton
Page Views: 2,213 total, 17/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The obviousy steep flake feature on the right side of the Screamweaver cliff.
p.1- Sramble up to a point where you can undercling the bottom of the big flake. Lieback/jam your way through the steep section. Move slightly right, pull the roof, and continue up somewhat sustained, steeper terrain to a large tree at the top. 90', 5.10c.

Location

Look for the obvious flake near the right end of the Screamweaver buttress. 30m rap to the ground, or it looks like you can walk off as well.

Protection

Take a wide range of gear, from yellow TCU-#3 camalot. Tree anchor w/ a rap setup at the top.

Photos

munkeybog
Columbia, SC
 
munkeybog   Columbia, SC
 
Burl and go. Jan 5, 2016
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.10c
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.10c
Pulling the roof after the crux is definitely the most exciting part of the route. Oct 31, 2011