Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Ralph Fickel, Jeff Burton
Page Views: 2,450 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

The obviousy steep flake feature on the right side of the Screamweaver cliff.
p.1- Sramble up to a point where you can undercling the bottom of the big flake. Lieback/jam your way through the steep section. Move slightly right, pull the roof, and continue up somewhat sustained, steeper terrain to a large tree at the top. 90', 5.10c.

Location

Look for the obvious flake near the right end of the Screamweaver buttress. 30m rap to the ground, or it looks like you can walk off as well.

Protection

Take a wide range of gear, from yellow TCU-#3 camalot. Tree anchor w/ a rap setup at the top.

Photos

JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.10c
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.10c
Pulling the roof after the crux is definitely the most exciting part of the route. Oct 31, 2011
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
 
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
 
Burl and go. Jan 5, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb is amazing. So much variety, and very sustained. Be ready for a heinous walk-off, especially if it's late fall and crispy slippery leaves are covering the ground. We skirted high and ended up at Paul's Boutique. Was still sketchy getting down further from there (climbing shoes made it worse). No sign of any Tat on the trees at the top of the climb. Nov 29, 2018