Heads out a steep and pumpy right to left hand crack. Rope drag can definitely be an issue. There is a small area tucked in a corner where you could belay if you think you will catch drag. Head around to the left on massive chicken heads then a short run out up the steep head wall. Super fun climbing and much better than it looks from below!
Right of screamweaver past a 3rd class gully.
Some big pieces useful but not needed at the start. The guide book says long slings for the chicken heads but after turning the corner there aren't many that can be slung.