Leapin' Lizards
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 35.45073, -82.21796 |
| FA: | Doug Reed |
| Page Views: | 2,302 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Javier L on Jan 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Start on the right side of the buttress. Head up and slightly right through an awkward powerful section that gains a good stance. Cross back left and run it out on easy ground toward a horizontal under the first small roof and a bolt above. Stretch for the bolt to protect the first crux, pull it, then run it out again on good edges (5.9 ground) to a much needed placement. Climb to the 2 stacked fixed pins where you can get it all back on jugs. Make a long move and difficult clip of the last bolt on your way through the roof. Head up on good edges and plug another piece on a horizontal well above the bolt. Keep it together as you run it out one more time through tricky edges and crimps as you mantle to the 2 bolt anchor.
Caution, run outs lead to big whips, potential ground falls and sore ankles. On the date of submission there was a large loose rock under the first roof.
From the first bolt a right variation skips the initial crux through an anemic flake system.



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