Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 901 total · 12/month
Shared By: Javier L on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the right side of the buttress. Head up and slightly right through an awkward powerful section that gains a good stance. Cross back left and run it out on easy ground toward a horizontal under the first small roof and a bolt above. Stretch for the bolt to protect the first crux, pull it, then run it out again on good edges (5.9 ground) to a much needed placement. Climb to the 2 stacked fixed pins where you can get it all back on jugs. Make a long move and difficult clip of the last bolt on your way through the roof. Head up on good edges and plug another piece on a horizontal well above the bolt. Keep it together as you run it out one more time through tricky edges and crimps as you mantle to the 2 bolt anchor.

Caution, run outs lead to big whips, potential ground falls and sore ankles. On the date of submission there was a large loose rock under the first roof.

From the first bolt a right variation skips the initial crux through an anemic flake system.

Location

Right of Chicken Head City. Go up onto a separate ledge in front of the orange wall. Rappel or hike out.

Protection

small and medium cams. 2 bolts and a pair of fixed pins. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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