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Routes in Screamweaver Area

Black Planet T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boldfingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Head City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coldfingers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Finishing School Blues T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free for All S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Friday the 13th T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Blend S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Leapin' Lizards T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping In Rhythm T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamweaver T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zydygo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Eddie Begoon, Doc Bayne
Page Views: 1,833 total, 21/month
Shared By: Brady Robinson on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

An excellent, improbable route that is often overlooked. From below it just doesn't look like it should go, especially with no bolts. While intimidating, the protection is excellent and there is nothing but air to hit from a fall from the crux.

Climb the obvious corner to a ledge. Load up gear from a wide stem, and then hand traverse left on amazing holds. Around the lip, be sure to use long slings or you will be sorry! Double rope technique would work too. Embark into the amazing face above with horizontal cracks that eat up TCUs. This is the redpoint crux. Keep it together until you reach a ledge and easy climbing to an anchor at a tree.

Location

To the left of Screamweaver, just right of Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid on the same huge roof.

Protection

Standard rack. #3 & #2 Camalots can be placed in pods at the beginning of the traverse out the roof. TCUs or nuts protect the steep face above the roof.

Photos

Robert Hutchins
  5.11c
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11c
Great and improbable route. However, would caution against taking this one lightly. Despite the OPs comment about the "horizontals that eat up TCUs" on the face, the rock is very irregular, making the gear tricky to place. The face is much steeper than it looks, so the clock is ticking fast. Unless you cheat and step over into Southern Boys, there are no great stances from which place gear. The face is probably only a 10+ TR. The business is placing the gear on lead. Dec 22, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Sam, traverse left from the start using the large horizontal until you pull around the arete. Pull straight up after the arete using more horizontals on the very coarse, sustained face. Don't use the Southern Boys crack. Apr 19, 2011
Sam Stephens  
 
We got a #2 in a pod right in the middle of the traverse. I'm curious though. Does the route stay in the overhanging face to the right of the arete or traverse around the arete and mosey up the pebbly face to the top just lefft of the arete? Feb 10, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I don't know about carrying a #2 or #3 camalot. A high green alien or .3 works best to protect the traverse. Double ropes is a good idea. Feb 7, 2011