Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Eddie Begoon, Doc Bayne
Page Views: 2,673 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brady Robinson on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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An excellent, improbable route that is often overlooked. From below it just doesn't look like it should go, especially with no bolts. While intimidating, the protection is excellent and there is nothing but air to hit from a fall from the crux.

Climb the obvious corner to a ledge. Load up gear from a wide stem, and then hand traverse left on amazing holds. Around the lip, be sure to use long slings or you will be sorry! Double rope technique would work too. Embark into the amazing face above with horizontal cracks that eat up TCUs. This is the redpoint crux. Keep it together until you reach a ledge and easy climbing to an anchor at a tree.


To the left of Screamweaver, just right of Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid on the same huge roof.


Standard rack. #3 & #2 Camalots can be placed in pods at the beginning of the traverse out the roof. TCUs or nuts protect the steep face above the roof.