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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Upper Broadway is located on a sunny series of ledges below the east face. In general the rock is less featured than the West Face. Most of the routes are 5.7 or harder. Classic routes include Conns East (5.6), Soler (5.7), ALCOA Presents (5.8), Frosted Flake (5.9), Castor (5.10a), Pollux(5.10a), and Spock's Brain (5.11b?)

Getting There

Upper Broadway can be reached from the east face trail or by scrambling from lower Broadway

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Broadway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 40
Windy Corner
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
Conn's East
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 33
Dirty Old Man
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 120
Soler
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Conn's East Direct
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Alcoa Presents
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 46
Frosted Flake
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 54
High Test
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 78
Castor
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Pollux
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Orangeaid
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Nip and Tuck
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Spock's Brain
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Low Octane
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
The Changling
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Windy Corner
 40
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Conn's East
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Dirty Old Man
 33
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Soler
 120
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Conn's East Direct
 54
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Alcoa Presents
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Frosted Flake
 46
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
High Test
 54
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Castor
 78
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pollux
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Orangeaid
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nip and Tuck
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Spock's Brain
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Low Octane
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Changling
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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