Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Howard Doyle, Eric Janoscrat
Page Views: 228 total · 15/month
Shared By: Will Alford on Nov 2, 2019
Admins: Andy Weinmann

You & This Route


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Description

The climb starts just right of Pancho and Lefty. Climb the obvious left facing corner to a show stopping crux. You can lunge for the good hold (make sure you have a good belayer, it’s close to the ground) or choose to make the extremely difficult but static moves up the arete of the corner, interspersed with a few small crimps on the face. Once you’ve stuck this move don’t celebrate too much because the climb isn’t over yet. At the top of the corner make a few more hard compression moves towards the bolt. Clip it and pull up on to the nice ledge. The climbing from here backs off significantly but is very unprotected.

On the first ascent attempts Cal Swoager was the plunger.

Compared to other 5.11d’s at Seneca this one feels a little bit extra sandbagged, but nevertheless a very fun and challenging route to figure out. I’m not sure if this is R or PG-13 but if you’re doing the lunge you’re very close to ground fall territory and after you’ve reach the ledge above the bolt there is very little gear to the top.

Location

Located off the ledges below Upper Broadway, just right of Pancho and Lefty. If you’re heading towards Upper Broadway from Cardiac Hill go climbers left at the rescue cache and down the hill on the ledges. The climb starts in the obvious left facing corner.

Protection

Single rack to #1, micro cams, one bolt, and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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