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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Eddie Begoon, Daniel Miller - 1988
Page Views: 60 total · 7/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Jun 22, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

As of this writing, this should be a TR problem only as the bolts need replacing. They are old SMC hangers on buttonheads...in other words, death bolts. You can rig a TR for this off the Frosted Flake bolts. Climb Frosted Flake (5.9) or Dirty Old Man (5.6) to reach the anchor.

Climb the steep, crimpy face left of Frosted Flake past 4 bolts. Sustained and steep.

Location

On the large flake in between Dirty Old Man and Frosted Flake, on the right side of the flake (the left side is Icing On The Cake).

Protection

Four bad, old, rusty bolts. Good anchors up top.

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