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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Soler, Ray Moore
Page Views: 14,815 total, 121/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

The second pitch of this climb is one of the most classic pitches at Seneca! Amazingly, it was first done in 1951! P1: Climb the wide corner/flake sytem to reach a left trending ramp. The first 30 feet can be a bit runout unless you have very large gear. However, with modern camming units, there is gear that can be found in the flake if you search hard for it. Don't let people scare you off because of the tales of runout here. You will be well rewarded by doing the entire route. P2: Climb up from the large ledge to access an overhanging crack system. Follow this crack system to the top. The moves here are absolutely amazing for the grade and the gear is anywhere you want to put it. If you are visiting Seneca, do this route.

Location

Heading left on Broadway ledge from Castor and Pollux, locate the obvious left facing corner system after Conn's East Direct.

Protection

Some very large or very small gear is helpful for P1. The rest of the route takes pretty much any size gear that you have. There's Shuts on the summit that you can lower back to Broadway ledge in one shot with 2 ropes or you can hit an intermediate set of shuts along the way.
Scott Baird
Hagerstown, MD
  5.7+
Scott Baird   Hagerstown, MD
  5.7+
This is my favorite route at Seneca so far. I love the exposure of the 2nd pitch belay. May 17, 2017
Torren
Newark, DE
Torren   Newark, DE
We did the Conn's East 5.7 lieback variation to the shuts on the ledge then continued up the face moves to join Solar proper. This was a pretty fun linkup and it avoids the wide P1 on solar. The couple moves off the ledge to gain the ramp were committing but probably not much harder then the moves on the rest of the route. Feb 21, 2017
Foster Tucker
Morgantown, West Virginia
 
Foster Tucker   Morgantown, West Virginia
 
I brought a #5 and a #6 just to play it safe on the first pitch. The #6 was very useful in the initial offwidth, I placed it as high as possible and it kept me out of ledge fall potential until I could find some smaller gear above. I placed the #5 a little higher up, it was comforting but not necessary as there were some small/medium nut and tricam placements to supplement it. This is a fantastic climb from bottom to top! Feb 19, 2017
Jon Booth
  5.8-
Jon Booth  
  5.8-
A #5 camalot protects the offwidth on pitch 1. Aug 9, 2013
Mark Maier
  5.7
Mark Maier  
  5.7
A green BigBro fits the off-width section of P1 like a charm. P2 is truly fantastic. Most any gear can be used, but the pitch is relatively long so be careful how you meter it out. Sep 29, 2012
Gunks
Gunks, NY
Gunks   Gunks, NY
I've been avoiding Soler because of all the talks about 30 foot runout and off width on pitch 1. Finally onsighted it a couple of weeks ago. The crux on pitch 1 is about 30 feet off the ground and is well protected. The off width/runout section is about 5.5. No off width technique required if you climb the face and layback the flake. Gear is more than adequate if you have C3s and tricams. Jul 18, 2011
The moves straight up onto the ramp were scary 5.8 with fall potential on the ledge, but definitely doable. Next time I will stop before the chains.

Yes, I did that, as well. Positive holds and reasonable moves, but not well protected. Aug 3, 2010
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
On p1, I went all the way to the chains on Conn's East. I considered backtracking to get onto the ramp, but there was chalk going straight up. The moves straight up onto the ramp were scary 5.8 with fall potential on the ledge, but definitely doable. Next time I will stop before the chains. Nov 30, 2009
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
 
Good squeeze-chimney technique can help on pitch 1 (i.e. wear long pants), or stick to face and the occasional lieback moves. I agree that the gear is all there; still, I wouldn't recommend this 5.5 pitch to a beginning leader.

Set up an anchor at the top of pitch 1 where the giant flake begins running horizontally, more or less (at the start of the orange ramp that runs diagonally up and right). If you run into the cold shuts on Conn's East, you've traversed 20 feet too far along the top of the flake.

Pitch 2 is one of the most exhilarating 5.7 pitches at Seneca -- and that is saying something in a place renowned for amazing 5.7s. Mar 12, 2009