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All Locations > West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > South Peak - Ea… > Upper Broadway

Nip and Tuck

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes

Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Richardson, Perch, & Laeger - 1974
Page Views: 1,541 total · 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

The route begins at the far right end of the Broadway Ledge. Climb up from the right side of a block and follow incipient cracks up and left through bulging rock.

Protection

Standard rack, extra small gear.

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3 Comments

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Newest Oldest Best Beta
Kirby
DC
 
Kirby   DC
 
This route is mother flippin awesome. Thin, funky, awesome holds, balance-y, technical, and varied. Small but good gear and very safe. You can get all the way to the bolts on top of High Test with a 70 m and lower with rope to spare. Tough at the start, then continuous until you hit the roof, where it eases up quite a lot. Jun 8, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10c
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10c
Agree with Kirby. Great, sustained route. Probably nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed. After the roof you can kinda wander over to the High Test bolts on some licheny, but OK rock. Wasps have been known to sometimes be a nuisance on this in the summer. Jul 10, 2015
tbateman
tbateman  
Continuing to the high test anchors is a good idea. I recently arrived at the slung block/flake at the top of the route and found old slings that were cut (for good reason). I was planning to rap the route and clean the gear so I wanted to use this anchor rather than traverse over to the high test anchors. After slinging the block/flake with new webbing I bounce tested it before going off belay. The bounce test resulted in a sketchy groaning noise from the rock! I unslung my webbing and was happy to traverse to high test and rap off those bomber bolts! Dec 7, 2015

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