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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Richardson, Perch, & Laeger - 1974
Page Views: 1,446 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

The route begins at the far right end of the Broadway Ledge. Climb up from the right side of a block and follow incipient cracks up and left through bulging rock.

Protection

Standard rack, extra small gear.

Photos

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Continuing to the high test anchors is a good idea. I recently arrived at the slung block/flake at the top of the route and found old slings that were cut (for good reason). I was planning to rap the route and clean the gear so I wanted to use this anchor rather than traverse over to the high test anchors. After slinging the block/flake with new webbing I bounce tested it before going off belay. The bounce test resulted in a sketchy groaning noise from the rock! I unslung my webbing and was happy to traverse to high test and rap off those bomber bolts! Dec 7, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10c
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10c
Agree with Kirby. Great, sustained route. Probably nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed. After the roof you can kinda wander over to the High Test bolts on some licheny, but OK rock. Wasps have been known to sometimes be a nuisance on this in the summer. Jul 10, 2015
Kirby
DC
 
Kirby   DC
 
This route is mother flippin awesome. Thin, funky, awesome holds, balance-y, technical, and varied. Small but good gear and very safe. You can get all the way to the bolts on top of High Test with a 70 m and lower with rope to spare. Tough at the start, then continuous until you hit the roof, where it eases up quite a lot. Jun 8, 2015