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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,492 total, 30/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

From the large belay ledge at the top of Conns East Direct (also the start of Orangeaid) belay from anchors on right and climb crack with large aluminum piton in it (hence the name) to summit crest.

Protection

Std rack.

Photos

If you forget to save a dyneema runner to thread through the big piton (as I did), there are a healthy number of small cam placements nearby. Sep 8, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
I had no intention of trying this route or any Seneca 5.8 for now, but just staring up at it from the anchors on Alcoa ledge, this line looked too good not to hop on. And it lived it up to expectations. Aug 10, 2015
While you can't clip the aluminum pin because the eye is into the crack, you can thread it with a thin dyneema sling. The next few moves are the crux for me and I actually find them more difficult than Triple S. May 27, 2014
Andrew J 133
Richmond, VA
 
Andrew J 133   Richmond, VA
 
Great line, very well protected, don't bother clipping the alcoa piton, it's hammered in too far, got pumped trying to clip it. Get good gear below that point and then cruise through the cruxy/foot smear section before getting great gear above it...awesome climb Apr 7, 2014
BigRed11    
 
Really awesome route...exciting and sustained Sep 11, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.8+
K Baumgartner  
  5.8+
Phenomenal line that doesn't back off.

A new piton adds extra security about half way up. Found superb hand jams to top out the route to the belay. Oct 24, 2012