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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,965 total, 67/month
Shared By: Ross Purnell on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt achnors.
Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.

Location

Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.

Protection

Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.

Description

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt anchors.
Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.

Location

Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.

Protection

Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.
Benjamin Larson
Indianapolis, Indiana
Benjamin Larson   Indianapolis, Indiana
This was my second multipitch trad route. I tried to lead the first section off the deck, only got up to the chockstone but couldn't make it past that. My partner lead the rest of the climb. The start is very scary with minimal pro. The route involves quite a bit of traversing which was new to me. The summit is exciting with lots of exposure! We were able to rap down from the keyhole on a 60 meter rope with 2 rappels, stopping at the Alcoa ledge after about 60 feet. The directions are good in the guidebook. Fun route, difficult for the rating, very alpine-like climbing the required every trick in my book! May 17, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Really wandery route. It's got some fun moves in it, but there's just so much traversing it kinda detracts from the experience. Definitely do the 5.7 lieback variation on the first pitch, and if you're up for it, taking the direct line Alcoa Presents from the top of the second pitch straight to the summit is a fantastic way to finish the route. Aug 10, 2015
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
In the guide it mentions some fantastic 5.7 laybacks if you go off route a bit. Highly recommend this variation as it's some of the best climbing on the route. Otherwise i felt it was so-so. Lots of walking across ledges interspersed with short sections of cool climbing. Jul 30, 2012
Davis13au  
 
Granted, it's not the greatest 5.6 on the planet but it's still a good multi pitch route at the grade. The first pitch starts off a bit awkward with not so great protection for the first few moves and the second pitch is short but lots of fun. It wanders across the ledges but you are climbing more than you are walking ledges. I wouldn't put it in Old Lady's territory. The last pitch is fun down low and then you can't beat the walk across the summit ridge. May 4, 2012
attila  
This is NOT as great of a climb as some claim. Yes there are some cool moves, like the crux on P2 and the vertical section of P3, but it's kinda like Old Lady's route with a couple of 5.6 moves thrown in. A lot of strolling traverses on ledges - though I won't complain about the ledges providing comfy belays. Apr 11, 2010