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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,543 total · 44/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

A maximum value experience not to be missed. You will find a bit of everything on this classic which has been described by at least one experienced regular as a "great 5.9 with a 5.11 crux". Your experience may vary but you will definitely consider an ascent worth your time.

Not recommended for a 5.9 leader.

Climb the thin crack (cruxy), traverse right then stem up the left-facing corner(strenuous) and finally face climb past the bulge to the top.

Location

From the intersection of the East Face trail and Upper Broadway (base of Castor) turn right (North) and walk to the high point ~20 ft in front of you shaded by a pine tree. You will see a thin crack in the wall leading to a horizontal feature about 20' up.

Protection

A little bit of everything. Did you remember your small gear?

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Definitely nowhere near 5.11. Nice long pitch, but a bit mossy in spots. Oct 19, 2010
Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
 
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
 
Felt maybe 10a by modern standards. Definitely spot on compared to other grades at Seneca Oct 16, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+
Agree with Allison, probably 10a but spot on with other Seneca 9+ routes. Crux is def the finger crack down low. That said, the rest of it isn't much easier so 'sustained' is the name of the game. Protects fairly well; take what the route gives you and don't pass up gear placements, especially once past the first big ledge. There's still a fixed stopper in the right-facing corner/small roof as of 11NOV2012. Nov 13, 2012
Frogmen83  
 
One of the toughest 5.9's (hee hee) I've ever led. Great route! Oct 20, 2014
Jeff McLeod
  5.10a
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10a
One of if not the best climb I've done at Seneca. This is in-your-face climbing that challenges a variety of skills. Is any move harder than 5.9? Probably not. But it's consistently hard 5.9 for 100 feet with few good rests. Certified classic. A single 60m rope doesn't quite reach the ground. Sep 20, 2015
I did the FA of this route a long time ago and loved every second of the climb.
Looking at the pics of Seneca brings back many fond memories. I hope it hasn't changed much. Almost Heaven! Apr 4, 2017
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
Herb - I used to climb a lot at Seneca in the early 80s. After a 30 year break in climbing, I made it back to Seneca a couple years ago. It may be I'm viewing things through older eyes but to me Seneca has a totally different feel now. Still a great place but not what it used to be. Jul 29, 2017
Brad Leneis
  5.9+
Brad Leneis  
  5.9+
This has to be one of the best pitches at Seneca. You can rap on a single 70m. Jul 19, 2018

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