Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,629 total · 43/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

54 Opinions

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A maximum value experience not to be missed. You will find a bit of everything on this classic which has been described by at least one experienced regular as a "great 5.9 with a 5.11 crux". Your experience may vary but you will definitely consider an ascent worth your time.

Not recommended for a 5.9 leader.

Climb the thin crack (cruxy), traverse right then stem up the left-facing corner(strenuous) and finally face climb past the bulge to the top.


From the intersection of the East Face trail and Upper Broadway (base of Castor) turn right (North) and walk to the high point ~20 ft in front of you shaded by a pine tree. You will see a thin crack in the wall leading to a horizontal feature about 20' up.


A little bit of everything. Did you remember your small gear?


Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
Definitely nowhere near 5.11. Nice long pitch, but a bit mossy in spots. Oct 19, 2010
Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
Felt maybe 10a by modern standards. Definitely spot on compared to other grades at Seneca Oct 16, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Agree with Allison, probably 10a but spot on with other Seneca 9+ routes. Crux is def the finger crack down low. That said, the rest of it isn't much easier so 'sustained' is the name of the game. Protects fairly well; take what the route gives you and don't pass up gear placements, especially once past the first big ledge. There's still a fixed stopper in the right-facing corner/small roof as of 11NOV2012. Nov 13, 2012
One of the toughest 5.9's (hee hee) I've ever led. Great route! Oct 20, 2014
Jeff McLeod
Jeff McLeod  
One of if not the best climb I've done at Seneca. This is in-your-face climbing that challenges a variety of skills. Is any move harder than 5.9? Probably not. But it's consistently hard 5.9 for 100 feet with few good rests. Certified classic. A single 60m rope doesn't quite reach the ground. Sep 20, 2015
I did the FA of this route a long time ago and loved every second of the climb.
Looking at the pics of Seneca brings back many fond memories. I hope it hasn't changed much. Almost Heaven! Apr 4, 2017
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
Herb - I used to climb a lot at Seneca in the early 80s. After a 30 year break in climbing, I made it back to Seneca a couple years ago. It may be I'm viewing things through older eyes but to me Seneca has a totally different feel now. Still a great place but not what it used to be. Jul 29, 2017
Brad Leneis
Brad Leneis  
This has to be one of the best pitches at Seneca. You can rap on a single 70m. Jul 19, 2018