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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,275 total, 53/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.

The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents).

Location

Castor is left of the twin finger/hand crack systems located beside a large boulder.

Protection

Handsize and smaller gear. Anchors at the top.
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Beautiful line. Wouldn't say it's 5.8 after the 10a section though. Some 8, some 9. Still need to be focused. Take the pitch up to the shuts on the end of Conn's East P1. The 2nd pitch (3rd by the book's standards) is great. Pro is all there. After the small overhang you'll pull up to a good stance and have two options. Crack on the left or a shallow left facing corner/flake on the right. Both lead to a ledge with the cold shuts. Going left, the top move to get to the shuts gets your attention (9ish). You can also pop out onto the summit with a couple more moves. Oct 8, 2012
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Hey pretty nice crack. Little thuggish, i.e. some wide jamming.

Kinda like a jtree route in that the start doesn't quite count in the rating. The rest is 10a casual though.

You can get 2 good pieces protecting the start while standing on the ground... Sep 19, 2011
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.10b/c
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.10b/c
The real crux is placing the first piece of gear. This climb is really a 5.8 ontop of a v2 boulder problem. The main description above is wrong after the large ledge. Jeremy’s comments are more correct. Feb 20, 2009
Kris Gorny

  5.10a
Kris Gorny    
  5.10a
Also, combination of Castor (or Pollux) with Orange Aid makes for a cool 5.10 "diretissima" of the East Face. Oct 10, 2007
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The second pitch is quite nice. Follow right facing ramp till it ends and continue up on good holds to reach a thin crack to a small roof. Passing the small roof is 5.9-, and there are cold shuts at the top to descend. Sep 24, 2007