Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,993 total · 53/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


88 Opinions

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Description

According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.

The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents).

Location

Castor is left of the twin finger/hand crack systems located beside a large boulder.

Protection

Handsize and smaller gear. Anchors at the top.

Photos

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The second pitch is quite nice. Follow right facing ramp till it ends and continue up on good holds to reach a thin crack to a small roof. Passing the small roof is 5.9-, and there are cold shuts at the top to descend. Sep 24, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10a
Kris Gorny    
  5.10a
Also, combination of Castor (or Pollux) with Orange Aid makes for a cool 5.10 "diretissima" of the East Face. Oct 10, 2007
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.10b/c
dinglestyle   Catonsville, MD
  5.10b/c
The real crux is placing the first piece of gear. This climb is really a 5.8 ontop of a v2 boulder problem. The main description above is wrong after the large ledge. Jeremy’s comments are more correct. Feb 20, 2009
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Hey pretty nice crack. Little thuggish, i.e. some wide jamming.

Kinda like a jtree route in that the start doesn't quite count in the rating. The rest is 10a casual though.

You can get 2 good pieces protecting the start while standing on the ground... Sep 19, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Beautiful line. Wouldn't say it's 5.8 after the 10a section though. Some 8, some 9. Still need to be focused. Take the pitch up to the shuts on the end of Conn's East P1. The 2nd pitch (3rd by the book's standards) is great. Pro is all there. After the small overhang you'll pull up to a good stance and have two options. Crack on the left or a shallow left facing corner/flake on the right. Both lead to a ledge with the cold shuts. Going left, the top move to get to the shuts gets your attention (9ish). You can also pop out onto the summit with a couple more moves. Oct 8, 2012
First Ascent: Pat Milligan Mar 21, 2018