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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Eve Uiga, Herb Laeger
Page Views: 417 total, 6/month
Shared By: A Terray on Apr 1, 2012 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Start on the Alcoa Presents ledge. Move left of Orangeaid approximately 15 feet to a right facing flake and crack system. Climb the flake and crack, then trend slightly left up the face just before the end of the flake. Finally, head right on easy ground just below the summit to belay on a fixed chain anchor right (north) of the true summit." However - there are actually two ways to finish the pitch. Moving slightly left just before the flake ends (as described above) is easier and safer, and is what most people do to finish. Staying with the flake system, and moving up and right past the end of the flake offers harder climbing and NO gear until a short vertical slot for a bomber cam about 15 feet above the very end of the flake - borderline R rated.
This is indeed an Old School 5.9+ - we all know what that means! I agree that it really is every bit of 5.10b, and frankly even harder to hang around on and place gear on than Orangeaid.

Location

10 feet left of Orangeaid, on the Alcoa Ledge.

Protection

PG

Photos

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This was the last route that Eve and I climbed at Seneca before moving to Californa....hence the name. Seneca has a special place in my heart...it's almost heaven. I hope it hasn't changed very much. Aug 21, 2016
I seconded this route years ago, when it was rated 5.9. It's damn hard, although it does protect well. The HARDEST 9 I've ever climbed except for Conans Gonads at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado. But, maybe I was just spent from the long hike into Conans. If you're solid at the grade, go for it! Sep 6, 2012