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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Herb Laeger & Eve Uiga, 1975
Page Views: 2,336 total · 17/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Fine climbing and a good old school route. Runout is least of worries if you can do the crux. Climb crack in corner to end, then left to crack (5.11) up to bold face moves (5.10 PG). There may be cold shuts @ 100', these were not there in '86 when I lead it.

Location

Left of the start of Castor & Pollux the is a short right-facing corner.

Protection

brass nuts, stoppers, small camming units, ball nuts helpful.

Photos

Nate26  
hmm. I remember the runout being through the crux? PG13 is pretty kind as well R? Mar 25, 2008
I top roped this route this past Friday and thought it was hard for the grade and that it would be a desperate lead. Hats off to Herb Laeger, leading this thing in 1975! World class for the time period and BOLD! Oct 3, 2011
John Bercaw
SALT LAKE CITY
John Bercaw   SALT LAKE CITY
As I remember, small wires, RP 2s and Stopper 2s at your feet while you do the crux. Pro below that another 7' down. After the crux there was a hidden 5 Stopper or you ran it out to the undercling. You were about 10-15' above your pro when you got to the undercling. Think it would be R in most areas. Jan 27, 2015
Just a heads up- I managed to fix a small brassie right after the crux while bounce testing it. I did not fall on it and I'd be a little hesitant to (it's a very odd placement). Don't put all your trust in that thing, and happy climbing. Dec 1, 2015

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