Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Herb Laeger & Eve Uiga, 1975
Page Views: 2,446 total · 17/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Fine climbing and a good old school route. Runout is least of worries if you can do the crux. Climb crack in corner to end, then left to crack (5.11) up to bold face moves (5.10 PG). There may be cold shuts @ 100', these were not there in '86 when I lead it.


Left of the start of Castor & Pollux the is a short right-facing corner.


brass nuts, stoppers, small camming units, ball nuts helpful.


hmm. I remember the runout being through the crux? PG13 is pretty kind as well R? Mar 25, 2008
I top roped this route this past Friday and thought it was hard for the grade and that it would be a desperate lead. Hats off to Herb Laeger, leading this thing in 1975! World class for the time period and BOLD! Oct 3, 2011
John Bercaw
John Bercaw   SALT LAKE CITY
As I remember, small wires, RP 2s and Stopper 2s at your feet while you do the crux. Pro below that another 7' down. After the crux there was a hidden 5 Stopper or you ran it out to the undercling. You were about 10-15' above your pro when you got to the undercling. Think it would be R in most areas. Jan 27, 2015
Just a heads up- I managed to fix a small brassie right after the crux while bounce testing it. I did not fall on it and I'd be a little hesitant to (it's a very odd placement). Don't put all your trust in that thing, and happy climbing. Dec 1, 2015