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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: John Fatseas on May 29, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

From Seneca The Climber's Guide Second Edition by Tony Barnes:
"Begin on the same ledge as OrangeAid and Alcoa.
Climb the face several feet to the right of Alcoa. Aim for the orange-colored rock. Climb the orange rock up and to the left, aiming for the summit."

Protection

Cams 1 - 3 and basic nut set will do fine.

Photos

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Fun route that will benefit from more traffic. If you're on the Alcoa Ledge, don't want to do Aloca Presents or the end of Conn's East then you should do this route. The description here is vague though. Start basically right next to Alcoa Presents and follow the cracks up to an overhanging ramp that goes out right. Follow the ramp to an alcove with some loose rock (careful!). Pull out of the alcove to the left and follow a crack system to the stump of an old pine tree. Now you have two options: 1.) continuing left past the pine is 5.6 and you will join with the top of Alcoa Presents and finish up. OR 2.) go straight up following a vertical crack system and top out about 5-10 feet to the right of the Alcoa Presents anchor.

Def recommend the 5.7 variation that goes straight up from the stump of the old pine tree following the crack. Aug 23, 2011

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