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Dirty Old Man [Suggest Change]
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 34
votes
Routes in Upper Broadway
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Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Frosted Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 155 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Charlie Fowler, Jon Harris, Dave Bushman, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 2,540 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Aug 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Your Star Rating:
Description [Suggest Change]
P1: Climb up the short wall to a small ledge beneath the large corner/flake. Climb the corner/flake to a good ledge. You can move up and a bit right to the wall (start of P2) and build a gear belay or move further right to a belay at bolts. If you use the bolts, beware of rope drag.
P2: From the bolts, move left and climb toward a steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the Summit Ledge. Beware of loose rock at the top. A large piece (#4 Camalot) is helpful at the beginning of the pitch.
P2: From the bolts, move left and climb toward a steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the Summit Ledge. Beware of loose rock at the top. A large piece (#4 Camalot) is helpful at the beginning of the pitch.
Location [Suggest Change]
Left side of Upper Broadway Ledge about 40 feet right of the Upper Broadway Chimney. Look for an obvious left-facing corner/flake that lies about 10 feet off the ground. The right side of this flake forms Frosted Flake.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Standard trad rack. Larger hexes and medium cams (#2/3/4) helpful.
Bolts at the end of P1 if you move about 20 ft left or build a gear anchor; bolted rap rings at the end of P2 behind the old, dying pine tree where the slings with rap rings used to be.
Bolts at the end of P1 if you move about 20 ft left or build a gear anchor; bolted rap rings at the end of P2 behind the old, dying pine tree where the slings with rap rings used to be.
Silver Spring, MD
- **NEW*** As of JUL2012, rap rings have been installed at the top of P2 in the wall behind the old pine tree. I noticed these today and cut the slings off the dying pine tree.
Aug 3, 2011Abingdon, MD
P1 is great climbing. P2 is slightly easier but looks just as hard.
Behind the bolts atop p1, theres alot of likeing and no immediate pro, just use your imagination and climb through the little bit of lieking to another small ledge which isnt hard 2 days ago