Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Fowler, Jon Harris, Dave Bushman, 1973
Page Views: 2,418 total, 31/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 3, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1: Climb up the short wall to a small ledge beneath the large corner/flake. Climb the corner/flake to a good ledge. You can move up and a bit right to the wall (start of P2) and build a gear belay or move further right to a belay at bolts. If you use the bolts, beware of rope drag.

P2: From the bolts, move left and climb toward a steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the Summit Ledge. Beware of loose rock at the top. A large piece (#4 Camalot) is helpful at the beginning of the pitch.

Location

Left side of Upper Broadway Ledge about 40 feet right of the Upper Broadway Chimney. Look for an obvious left-facing corner/flake that lies about 10 feet off the ground. The right side of this flake forms Frosted Flake.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Larger hexes and medium cams (#2/3/4) helpful.

Bolts at the end of P1 if you move about 20 ft left or build a gear anchor; bolted rap rings at the end of P2 behind the old, dying pine tree where the slings with rap rings used to be.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
 
This is a very consistent 5.6 route. Fun, pumpy moves on P1 and an interesting P2 with some decent exposure.

  • **NEW*** As of JUL2012, rap rings have been installed at the top of P2 in the wall behind the old pine tree. I noticed these today and cut the slings off the dying pine tree.
Aug 3, 2011