Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Pete Absolon, 1988
Page Views: 94 total · 33/month
Shared By: Will Alford on Nov 2, 2019
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Just left of Put a Wiggle in Your Stride, climb the broken ledges through easier terrain to the left leaning crack. Place a few pieces of gear in the crack and follow it up to a small ledge just below the first bolt. Although the climbing is easy through here a fall before the first bolt might end poorly. Clip the first bolt and get ready for series of sustained and cryptic crimp moves until shortly after the second bolt. Then run it out through the lichen to the top, try not to let the pump get the better of you here, a fall from the top could be pretty big, if your belayer isn’t paying attention.

In my opinion, the route is right on par with Put a Wiggle in Your Stride. With that said, I do think the crux is a bit harder, but the overall climbing is less sustained. 

Location

Located on the climbers left end of Upper Broadway, just right of Dirty Old Man, and just left of Put a Wiggle in Your Stride.

Protection

A couple of hand size pieces of gear for the crack, two bolts, no anchor

Photos

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