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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,423 total · 31/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Pollux is shorter but more sustained than the neighboring crack Castor. One follows the crack system up about 35 feet, to where it splits. Either way is about the same difficulty. After reaching the large ledge traverse right to anchors. A directional for the second right below the ledge might be appreciated.

Location

Pollux is the right crack in the twin crack system.

Protection

Handsize and smaller. Anchors at the top.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Noticable crux midway or so, after that it's hero hands to the top. Mar 1, 2009
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
 
The crux for me is the move off the flexi flake midway up. If you pull down on it, the top half of the flake bends outward. Mar 12, 2009
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Sweet crack route with some good crimps thrown in for variety Sep 19, 2011
Jon H
MD/DC
Jon H   MD/DC
Left a #8 Rock on the route yesterday after my partner took a 15 footer on it and welded it in place. Small wires are super helpful on this route. Lots of fun, just wish it was longer. Oct 1, 2012
David Raines  
 
Great route. Protects very well, just wish it was longer.
Small pro to hands the whole way. Jul 3, 2013
First Ascent: Pat Milligan Mar 21, 2018

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