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Pollux

5.10a, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 105 votes
FA: unknown
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - E Face > Upper Broadway

Description

Pollux is shorter but more sustained than the neighboring crack Castor. One follows the crack system up about 35 feet, to where it splits. Either way is about the same difficulty. After reaching the large ledge traverse right to anchors. A directional for the second right below the ledge might be appreciated.

Location

Pollux is the right crack in the twin crack system.

Protection

Handsize and smaller. Anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Toproping on Pollux
[Hide Photo] Toproping on Pollux
Having fun on Pollux
[Hide Photo] Having fun on Pollux
A nice May Day for climbing.
[Hide Photo] A nice May Day for climbing.
Crux section of Pollux
[Hide Photo] Crux section of Pollux
Pollux from the base
[Hide Photo] Pollux from the base
Castor and Pollux, Pollux on the right<br> Be sure to view full size for visual beta.
[Hide Photo] Castor and Pollux, Pollux on the right Be sure to view full size for visual beta.
Pollux below the crux.
[Hide Photo] Pollux below the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The crux for me is the move off the flexi flake midway up. If you pull down on it, the top half of the flake bends outward. Mar 12, 2009
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Sweet crack route with some good crimps thrown in for variety Sep 19, 2011
Jon H
MD/DC
[Hide Comment] Left a #8 Rock on the route yesterday after my partner took a 15 footer on it and welded it in place. Small wires are super helpful on this route. Lots of fun, just wish it was longer. Oct 1, 2012
David Raines
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. Protects very well, just wish it was longer.
Small pro to hands the whole way. Jul 3, 2013
Matt Lavender
[Hide Comment] First Ascent: Pat Milligan Mar 21, 2018
Daniel Kaye
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I found the crux to be the first 12-ish feet, but a very pleaseant crack/climb overall! Sep 20, 2019
Klein VerHill
Pittsburgh PA
 
[Hide Comment] A stellar climb! The gear is all there. I felt that there were two distinct crux moves. The first being the transition up into the first "pod", and then the transition around the second one. Took a small fall due to bad footwork at the first crux. Gonna haver to come back and redpoint. May 29, 2020