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Orion’s Belt Direct Finish
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Upper Broadway
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Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bogtrotter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castor to Terror T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Changeling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Face to Gunsight Notch T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hamburger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heavy Fuel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hopeful Illusions Direct Finish T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Icing on the Cake T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Kid Galahad and the Sunshine Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lunge or Plunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Mr. Jones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Natural Mystic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Off Broadway Show T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orion's belt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Orion’s Belt Direct Finish T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Terminal Velocity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Vision, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 38.8344, -79.36659 |
| FA: | Will Alford, 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,179 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Will Alford on Jul 31, 2019 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
Eddie Begoon originally told me about this variation to Orion’s Belt and that he had tried it once but never got around to coming back and sending it. To our knowledge this is a new FA.
The crux protects well, but it is a bit runout to the first bolt. You can get a .4 BD cam right below the finger lock, there is also a micro stopper placement after the crimpy sequence but it is hard to place when you’re pumped and it’s easier to just keep moving. The crux moves are a bit reachy and maybe height dependent.
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