Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Will Alford, 2019
Page Views: 1,039 total · 18/month
Shared By: Will Alford on Jul 31, 2019
Admins: Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Eddie Begoon originally told me about this variation to Orion’s Belt and that he had tried it once but never got around to coming back and sending it. To our knowledge this is a new FA.

Starting on the shallow left facing corner just above Castor, climb Orion’s Belt, but instead of heading to the crack left of the third bolt, continue straight up into a thin incipient crack. Jam fingers and smear feet to make a powerful long move to a crimp, quickly find a crystal to put your foot on to make another crimpy sequence followed by a powerful move up and right to a jug, then continue through easy terrain to the anchors.

The crux protects well, but it is a bit runout to the first bolt.  You can get a .4 BD cam right below the finger lock, there is also a micro stopper placement after the crimpy sequence but it is hard to place when you’re pumped and it’s easier to just keep moving. The crux moves are a bit reachy and maybe height dependent. 

Location Suggest change

  1. The climb with three bolts located at the left side of the sloping ramp just above the first pitch of Castor and left of Bogtrotter. Finishes on the Alcoa Ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Three bolts, a .4 BD cam and micro stoppers. Bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

loading