Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 3,529 total · 54/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jan 31, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Roof climbing at it's best! A 30 foot 12b on slightly overhanging slopers, leads to 35 feet of completely horizontal roof climbing madness.

Paw through scoops and slopes to reach a jug in the break just below the massive roof. Although the holds look pretty good from the ground, they all prove to be a bit harder to use than you expect- requiring creative moves and novel footwork to make things manageable. The first four bolts in the roof are the hardest, but the end does not let up. Save a little to clip the chains!

In my opinion, this route felt a bit stiff for 13a so be ready to kick into overdrive, and get creative. Some of the rock is a little friable so beware if you stray from the chalked up holds. Also, most people skip the third draw in the roof.

Location

The rightmost roof route in the Stephen King Library. Start just right of Pet Semetery.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. The roof bolts are fixed with quick-links, tied webbing and a carabiner. Make sure you inspect these on your attempt. Also, some of the bolts look a little rusty so beware.

Photos