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Routes in Stephen King Library

Brother in Arms S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Christine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Half S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gunslinger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heavy Fuel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maximum Overdrive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Misery S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Misery Delivered S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pet Semetery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Salem's Lot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shining, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skeleton Crew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Skeleton Poo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stand and Deliver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stand, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 2,604 total, 55/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jan 31, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Roof climbing at it's best! A 30 foot 12b on slightly overhanging slopers, leads to 35 feet of completely horizontal roof climbing madness.

Paw through scoops and slopes to reach a jug in the break just below the massive roof. Although the holds look pretty good from the ground, they all prove to be a bit harder to use than you expect- requiring creative moves and novel footwork to make things manageable. The first four bolts in the roof are the hardest, but the end does not let up. Save a little to clip the chains!

In my opinion, this route felt a bit stiff for 13a so be ready to kick into overdrive, and get creative. Some of the rock is a little friable so beware if you stray from the chalked up holds. Also, most people skip the third draw in the roof.

Location

The rightmost roof route in the Stephen King Library. Start just right of Pet Semetery.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. The roof bolts are fixed with quick-links, tied webbing and a carabiner. Make sure you inspect these on your attempt. Also, some of the bolts look a little rusty so beware.
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
One of the coolest roofs ever! Great movement and surprisingly good holds if your body position is correct! Mar 27, 2017
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.13a
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
  5.13a
I'm glad they're calling the initial 30' 12b, I thought it was sorta' hard for the start. Hardest part for me was all the sand/dirt on many of the holds leading out the roof. Classic, but needed a cleaning run before sending. Apr 3, 2016